Steep Angles from the North and South

Tuesday June 15, 2010

I was hoping for a redux of last Thursday's Gulf remnant swell but the swell angle was too steep too really blast into the bay. What little south was in the water (and there was a little), was hardly showing. The low, low minus tide didn't help but there was some wiggle room to surf before it got so drained out that the reefs we usually ride over, were flat little exposed islands dotting the playing field.


I paddled out at 0610 for what turned out to be a four hour session on the Angulo custom. I knew it wasn't going to be as good as last week, but I also knew that it wasn't going to get much better tomorrow or the rest of the week so I figured I'd take what I got and make a day out of it.

Jamie and I paddled out together and started pulling down little peelers in the 1-3 ft. range right away. After a while Middles looked pretty good and there even seemed to be some clear water showing, like little pools in the carpet of kelp that seemed to layout almost seamlessly from Sarges to Scimi's in a solid mass. After Jamie paddled in for work, there were only SUP surfers in the water for a quarter mile in either direction. SF Kevin was out on his Hawaii born SUP, and Greg paddled up from Seaville on his Stretch custom quad SUP.

Finally the tide just got too low to surf, so I headed down to the Yellow House to wait it out and pick up a few strays that wandered through the line-up. I had plenty of time to enjoy the beautiful morning and contemplate not much except for how fortunate I am to be here now, and my feet. As the tide filled back in I headed back to Sarges to finish off the session, riding wide the little peelers off the south section stairs.

I used to be frustrated by the immensity of the kelp beds, but after four years I've finally accepted them. If nature operates in cycles then they'll be gone or greatly diminished one of these days. In the meantime, they're there, and so am I. Another thing that used to bug me is water temp. It's cold again. Temps are in the low, low 50's. But the solution is just staying in Winter rubber longer...no big thing, just the way it is.

Writing about cold water reminds me of this mornings NWS discussion. They ended the update with this: CPC IS ALSO SUGGESTING THAT ENSO NEUTRAL CONDITIONS ARE PRESENT ACROSS THE EQUATORIAL PACIFIC WITH SEA SURFACE TEMPERATURES CONTINUING TO DECREASE ACROSS MUCH OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN. FORECAST MODELS ARE ALSO SUGGESTING THAT A TRANSITION TO LA NINA CONDITIONS WILL BE POSSIBLE DURING THE REMAINDER OF JUNE INTO AUGUST.

Be Nice Brah...Show 'em Aloha

Late Season Gulf Swell in Offshore Conditions

A little diligence paid off this morning, even though I almost blew it last night. I initially set the alarm for 0415, then since it was late, I upped it to 5AM. So by the time I got to the beach it was way past light enough to surf. But even still, I was paddling out into cleanly peeling low tide zippers in a brisk offshore wind by 0615. Short story is I surfed for over two hours in completely crowdless conditions. Definitely a midweek score.

Riley gave me an early morning face licking, included gratis with his typically enthusiastic greeting before walking his human and letting her play throw the ball. I wish I had a tenth of his energy. If so I'd of had a four hour session which would have included a six mile round trip paddle to anywhere just for fun. But he was good and barked farewell as I threw the Angulo custom into the shallows for the paddle out through the kelp.

Real southies have been few and far between so far this season, although we have had a couple good ones...not great but good. The late season Gulf storm driven swells have filled in the gaps for what has been a good Spring. Although the weather has been spotty, with some late season rain which is highly unusual, generally the sun has been shining and the temps warm.

Surf today was very consistent, in the 2-4 ft. range for the duration of my surf. About half hour into the session Matthew paddled out on his longboard for a forty-five minute pre-work surf. What a great way to start the day. I surfed alone again for another half hour until The Don paddled out on his noserider extraordinaire, which he immediately put to work. As usual he pulled down numerous long noserides as the incoming tide began to take some of the punch out of the waves, especially down the line as the reef started to bloat with rising sea water.

I called it a day after a few more people paddled out, swelling the crowd to five. After all, I already surfed a couple dozen or so fun waves. No reason to be greedy...who knows, maybe there will be more tomorrow?

I love days like today. Jeff calls 'em "Tweeners". They can be fun waves "tween" ground swells, or good waves "tween" crowds. They're kinda rare and totally bitchen.

More Beach Break Days

Sunday June 6, 2010

The swell dropped off a lot last night and the water temperature shot up. Shed my booties and swapped out the integrated hood in my Mutant for the open neck zippered pull over. Even though the water temp rocketed up almost three degrees to 55.9F, I still opted for a light neoprene cap. It kept me just right for the two hour dawn patrol session. It's so great to be back in bare feet again.

Yesterday's 4.3 foot at 12 second WNW wind swell had fallen off to a 2 feet at 10 seconds West swell, but that's about the same as last Thursday and I had fun then. It was enough motivation to set the iPod alarm for 5AM and an early start. Still late for true dawn patrollers, but I thought it would work OK for my beach break. I paddled out at 0630 and surfed for an hour by myself before another shortboarder joined me for the rest of the session. As the line up started to fill up around 0815 I headed in.

Waves today were not peeling as uniformly as the last three days. Lot's of close outs. Not many rights either. But the shortboarder surfing with me was goofy, and I saw him get a lot of waves, some not bad lefts too. Maybe it's just me or maybe a change in swell direction, the shape seemed better with the WNW direction. But who knows, with beach break you show up and get what you get. No promises.

Talked with Paul as he was about to catch a few on his big yellow longboard. His son Will is doing really well on the longboard contest circuit, and has been bitten hard by the competition bug. Who knows, maybe a pro longboarder? Helluva noserider that's for sure. Lot's of hard work and dedication ahead if that's the road he wants to travel. Will started surfing late in life, fifteen or so and only three years ago. We both marveled at how far and fast he has come.

Also chatted with Jeffrey for a bit, him recovering from a motorcycle injury. I teased him that at his age his bike days should be over. He got racked pretty good and this was his first time back in the water in over a month. He reminded me of the water pics I had taken of him a while back at GDubs. Yesterday Melissa reminded me of the pics I taken of her at Ray's...a long time ago. It felt good to me that they enjoy the shots. It's just for fun, and after all, that's what it's all about. Fun, fitness and stoke. It'll make your day, every day.

As Herby says, "Without vision the people perish; with Stoke, the people flourish!" Say Amen somebody!