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January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Monday, May 25, 2009

The New Wave: Short and Fat

While we often take pride in coddling ourselves with the notion that we are rational and linear beings, more often than not, our thoughts and our lives are shaped like the aftermath of rocks thrown into a quiet pond. One thought, action or event creates a series of concentric circles which collide with the next thought, and the next series of concentric circles, all blending and banging up against one another, creating non-linear, uneven, seemingly random patterns. This is how stand up paddle surfing has affected my laydown surfing perspectives, not only on means of locomotion, but on surfboard shapes. Is a short and very maneuverable SUP possible? Yes. Can those design elements be translated into a shortboard surfboard? Again, the answer is yes. While the wisdom of Solomon imparted that there is nothing new under the sun, I say, "Let's hear it for recombinant evolution."

After surfing my current Angulo custom SUP, my suspicions were confirmed that a brilliant designer/shaper can go beyond what exists in a changing and emerging genre, and make something that is different, that works, a new creation. Ed's custom SUP's surf like longboards. Period. Gone are the "point and shoot" days of the old, heavy stand up paddleboards. Now, instead of having a paddleboard I can surf, I have a surfboard I can paddle.

Oddly in some way, this led me to believe that I could have a "big" shortboard, i.e. one that would maneuver like a shortboard, but truly paddle like a bigger board, like a longboard. Not a hybrid, but a "big" shortboard. Thus was my new Ward Coffey 6-10 conceived. Ward gave it life by shaping elements from my stand up paddleboard into the 6-10. This has enabled me to enjoy SUPing, and laydown surfing on a much shorter board, because after all, SUPing, longboarding and shortboarding are all different genres of the same general sport, with emphasis on the word "different."

While I now have in my possession the hard copy of my original thesis, I couldn't let go of the idea of how well intelligently designed short and fat surfboards work, even though they are considered highly unconventional in today's mainstream shortboard culture, where most shortboard sales are driven by 45 guys on the ASP circuit.

Somewhere in the hazy recollections of my mind I remembered an article about a very short and fat shortboard that had drive, glide and lift and was insanely loose and skatey. TSJ ran a story last Dec/Jan about a "new" idea, given life by Richard Kenvin, Joe Bauguess and John Elwell. If you read the story, it will give an idea of what I'm talking about, and it just might stoke your imagination like it did mine.

I had the good fortune of communicating with Kirk G., one of the mainstays of this revo/evo/lution via his website Foam and Function, which is a great browse and full of interesting "new" and radical designs and boards. Kirk lives in SoCal, but was in my area on a book signing tour with Patrick Trefz, so I was able to hook up with him and check out his working edition of the mini-Simmons.

An extremely affable "Kiwi" (his nickname) and people person, we talked about a lot of things. But Kirk was quick to tell me, more than once, that all three men in the article were the main players in the rebirth of the mini-Simmons. John Elwell was a contemporary of Bob Simmons himself in the late 1940's and early 50's, and John brought to the table a working knowledge of Simmon's designs. Joe is a master shaper, and RK has the passion to bring this "new" idea to the surfing world. The complete primer on the mini-Simmons can be found on RK's blog, Hydrodynamica. He is also the driving force (and primary funder) of the independent film project, Hydrodynamica Project.

As a contemporary surfer, former pro surfer, and articulate observer, Kenvin is on familiar ground vis a vis modern surf culture. Why then, dig into the past? What could possibly be gained from looking at such a strange and frankly odd design? I mean, look at that tail! Look at the dimensions! But surf culture veterans who are open minded surfing moderns, bring creative and practical sensibilities based upon their natural bent and life experiences. And almost all moderns have deep experiences with skateboarding. In the evolved and enhanced mini-S, RK presents a blending of the shortboard with the immense dexterity of the skateboard, and the drive and glide of the longboard. All this in a 5'4" to 6' package.

If I hadn't already purchased my 6-10 I would have taken a much harder look at the mini-Simmons...even at my age and skill level this board is doable. Consider the (rough) dims of the board pictured here: 5-10 X 20 X 23 X 19 X 2 7/8. The caveat for me is that I just no longer have the flexibility to quickly pop-up and get my feet under me on a really short board (read anything under 5-10 or 6'.) But for younger surfers, raised on shortboards and skateboards, this is not a problem. The longest mini's don't usually exceed 6-4, at least for now. Beyond 6-4 I'm told, one starts to lose the efficacies of the Simmons inspired shortboard/longboard/skateboard synthesis. To get an idea of how the board works, scroll through RK's blog. He has a lot of videos posted that demonstrate how well the board performs under the guidance of a competent ripper.

As for me, who knows what the next year will bring. But I can tell you that my now empty but slowly refilling surfboard piggy bank may be the monetary means to bagging one of these boards in the future. If so, you can be sure you'll hear about it.

In the end, I have mixed feelings about new designs like the mini-Simmons, or designs that should emerge from highly evolved shapes like the mini-Simmons. If you have the float that makes it possible to catch a lot of waves in variable conditions from crappy to epic, but your board's float doesn't impede your surfing performance, shouldn't that translate into more waves caught, while still capturing the stoke of airborne, tail sliding, tube riding, high energy surfing? Well, in fact it does. So why don't they get it? Slaves to fashion I guess. Bottom line...less mini's in the line-up mean more waves for me.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Small, But Better Than Nuthin'

At least this gray and overcast May Gray morning dished up some light offshores at the 8 o'clock paddle out. It stayed that way for about 20 minutes before it went dead calm and glassy. The small, but weak nearshore wind swell driven waves perked up and delivered a few fun shoulders before the south easterlies came up and it went to crumbles with light chop. But I'm not complaining. It was miles better than a week ago today.

I surfed the Coffey 6-10 with quad set-up again, only this time I was able to put it on rail in some surfable faces. The board goes good, and the quads allow for smooth rail to rail surfing, with stability. The double fins on the rail really do add drive to the board's performance. The fins I'm using now are straight forward and generic. No mysto foils based on the NACA airfoil playbook. (No knock on NACA, I just have no idea how they work.) But my Future quads work good, even without the lift the NACA foils are supposed to provide. I've got a set of Pavel quads (Futures not LocBox) from a previous life that I think I'll slap in for my next surf. It'll be fun to compare the two sets. Changing fins is almost like changing surfboards. Amazing!

This is my last surf for a few days. I teach tomorrow and administer the final on Saturday. Anyway, this is Memorial Day weekend, the tourists will be thick as fleas on a dog's belly. M will get the bbq goods tomorrow and we'll lock down for the weekend. Beer, bible and bbq...sounds good to me.

And finally, thanks. Thanks to the thousands who have served, and who have bled and died so that I can spend my time here on earth, in this country, in my town and home, with the people I love and who love me. Your sacrifice cannot be repaid. Your actions were not in vain, your lives were not wasted. We will honor you forever.

"According to Professor David Blight of the Yale University History Department, the first memorial day was observed in 1865 by liberated slaves at the historic Washington Race Course (today the location of Hampton Park) in Charleston. The site was a former Confederate prison camp as well as a mass grave for Union soldiers who died in captivity.

The freed slaves re-interred the dead Union soldiers from the mass grave to individual graves, fenced in the graveyard and built an entry arch declaring it a Union graveyard. This was a daring action for them to take in the South shortly after the North's victory. On May 30, 1868, the freed slaves returned to the graveyard with flowers they had picked from the countryside and decorated the individual gravesites, thereby creating the first Decoration Day."


May 21, 2009 (Th)
In: 0805
Out: 0940
AT= 49-52F
WT= 51F
Wx: Low clouds and overcast
Tide: 3.0' Rising to 3.3'
Wind: Offshores to calm to moderate south easterlies
Sea Surface: Glassy to Light to moderate wind chop
6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom
Fin set-up: Thruster/Quad with Future Fins AM1 and Future 350 sidebite quad set-up.
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0730: 1.0 feet @ 10.5 WNW
0800: 1.3 feet @ 10.5 WNW (1-3 ft. wave faces)
0830: 1.3 feet @ 10.5 WNW
0900: 1.3 feet @ 10.5 WNW (1-3 ft. wave faces)
0930: 1.3 feet @ 10.5 WNW

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Sunny Paddle Day With Some Surfing Too


Great weather for a paddle. Temps in the 80's just inland. Easterly sea breezes keeping it cool at the beach, i.e. the low 70's. Water temps still frigid: low, low 50's.

Hopped in mid-afternoon in boardshorts, l/s rashie, hat and glasses, ready for a paddle down to NB's and back up to GDubs. Hoping for some surf along the way.

Surprised and disappointed to feel the easterlies. That usually means it's going to be colder than warmer. And in fact it was. Temps dropped about 8 degrees in less than two hours during my paddle/surf.

First leg was against the wind, 1.5 miles down to NB's. Always fun to come back down wind. Big party, and decent band on the pier. Somebody must'a got hitched. Really choppy around the end of the pier. Lots of backwash in the incoming tide off the cliffs. Tons of nudies at the nudie beach. Good day to roast your nuts I guess, for those so inclined.

Spotted some peelers at GDubs so I thought I'd check it out, even though I wasn't dressed for it. I was paddling with the Mikey DeTemple MD3 fin in today, trying it out in the kelp. It's better than the Pivot, but not as kelp resistant or loose as the tri-fin set-up. Lot's of drive off the thick base, but stiff, and much harder to turn than the tri. Not hard to get up on the tip, but how much easier was it than with the tri-fin set-up? Hard to say, need more time on it.

Kelp is still mega-thick and I did my share of falling off in it. The water is so cold that boardshorts and a rahsie is hardly protection against it. Definitely takes your breath away, and fast. Each tumble was a sprint for the board. Hypothermia and death set in within 20 minutes of exposure to 50 degree water. Pleasant thought. I coulda used a toasty nut roasting myself after this session.

May 16, 2009 (Sa)
In: 1445
Out: 1615
AT= 74 - 63F
WT= 51F
Wx: Sunny and clear
Tide: 2.6' Rising to 3.4'
Wind: East-south easterlies
Sea Surface: Glassy in the kelp to light wind ripples to choppy in some sections
10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Single fin - Rainbow DeTemple MD3
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
1400: 1.3 feet @ 15.4 SW (1 - 2 ft. faces)
1430: 1.3 feet @ 13.3 WSW
1500: 1.3 feet @ 10.5 W (1 - 2 ft. faces)
1530: 1.0 feet @ 10.5 W
1600: 1.3 feet @ 11.1 W (1 - 2 ft. faces)
1630: 1.3 feet @ 11.1 W
1700: 1.3 feet @ 11.1 W (1 - 2 ft. faces)

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Yeah Right, Just Horny

Teach tomorrow, weekend coming, haven't surfed for a week...just horny.

Paddled out at Rey-Rey's at 0814 into nothing...nothing. The weakest of background south swell and the nothingest of northwesterly windswell was creating mushy, gutless, foldovers that went nowhere, and did no thing. Really.

Surfed the 6-10 'cause I wanted to practice pop-ups. Also, put the quads in and wanted to see how they felt. Surprisingly I got a little taste of the tri-fin to quad change, and I like it. More stable, fun rail acceleration (when there's enough meat to get it on rail that is).

Forty-five minutes and it was over. If it was sex, I'd be ecstatic, but for a surf....barely enough.

May 14, 2009 (Th)
In: 0814
Out: 0900
AT= 53F
WT= 50F
Wx: Sunny and clear
Tide: 0.0'
Wind: Light to moderate southeasterlies
Sea Surface: Light to moderate wind chop
6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom
Fin set-up: Thruster/Quad with Future Fins AM1 and Future 350 sidebite quad set-up.
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0730: 1.0 feet @ 14.3 SW
0800: 1.0 feet @ 14.3 SW (1-2 ft. wave faces)
0830: 1.0 feet @ 13.3 SW
0900: No data (but basically the same)
0930: No data (but basically the same)