New South - Day Two

New south filled in yesterday creating some nice waves. Surfed Roots on the Q-Fish. Set a personal best of 17 waves in one hour but best of all is that I was by myself in plain view. Granted, I'm taking lower quality empty lines over quality with crowds but Roots is fun "beachbreak" over a rock reef. It only gets like this on a real swell at low, low tides. It should be good tomorrow too...hello dawn patrol! ("Waves" data from Storm Surf Buoy Model. "Buoy" data from NWS.)

May 30, 2007 (W) In: 0643 1st Wave: 0647 Out: 0817 Wave count: 23 WT=55 AT=54 Wx: June Gloom Tide: Incoming (0.3' to 1.73') Wind: None to very light Sea Surface: Glassy Buoy: 0700: 4.6 @ 16 SSW 0800: 4.6 @ 13.8 SW 0900: 4.3 @ 16 S Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) Roots: Rock reef acts like beachbreak Waves: 4.5' @ 14.7 Storm Surf Buoy Model

Memorial Day 2007

Reflecting on those who gave all to enable our freedom and our way of life...may we live worthy lives for their sacrifices.

Cold and foggy
Beaches packed
Nice combo swell
I'm OOS
with a bad back

1:00 PM PDT on 05/28 SWELLS: 8ft @ 10sec from NW 3ft @ 13sec from SW 1ft @ 19sec from South WIND: W@4kts TEMPS: A:60°F W:56.7°F

Mark Twain's SF Season

"The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco" Mark Twain, Will Rogers, H.L. Menken, Melvin Kowfnowski, Alfred E. Newman...take your choice. Even though he never said it, it certainly can seem that way at times. Hi at the Harbor yesterday...53 degrees.

Small windswell giving up some waist to shoulder high lines...some set waves going overhead. Cowells isn't breaking yet...everyone's at 38th. Your secret beachbreak is probably empty.

SWELLS: 5ft @ 8sec from NW 2ft @ 16sec from South WIND: NW@12kts TEMPS: A:52°F W:52°F Foggy, overcast, cold

Late May June Gloom

Just in time for Memorial Day. But that's OK...south never really developed into anything except for what Storm Surf forecast it to be...decent utility class swell. Had four days of fun in small, crowded surf. Now everything seems to have dropped down a bit...and the holiday three-day weekend is here. Lot's more people!

4:00 AM PDT on 05/26 SWELLS: 5ft @ 8sec from NW 2ft @ 12sec from West 1ft @ 14sec from SW Waves: 2.3ft @ 8.2sec AT = 51 WT= 51.6 Foggy, overcast, cold

Fish Gets A Wax Change

Early morning pre-surf wax change. Looks like new again...

May 21 (Su) 22 (M) 23 (Tu) 2007

Nice weather, decent windswell with a small south mixed in, town gets the nod.

May 21, 2007 (M) In: 1232 1st Wave: 1234 Out: 1325 Wave count: 10 WT=52.5 AT=68 Wx: Sunny, clear, warm Tide: Incoming (1.4' to 2.5') Wind: Light to none Sea Surface: Glassy Buoy: 1200: 5.6 @ 12.1 NW 1300: 6.9 @ 9.1 WNW 1400: 5.6 @ 9.1 WNW Quad Fish Sickles: Rock reef

Reefs working at low tide. High tide beach breaks blowing out.

May 22, 2007 (Tu) In: 1205 1st Wave: 1210 Out: 1315 Wave count: 11 WT=53 AT=68 Wx: Sunny and clear, cooler Tide: Incoming (0.8' to 2.0') Wind: Light NW Sea Surface: Glassy Buoy: 1200: 6.6 @ 10 NW 1300: 8.9 @ 10 NW 1500: 5.9 @ 9.1 NW Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) TPS: Rock reef

About the same as yesteray.

May 23, 2007 (W) In: 0912 1st Wave: 0915 Out: 1015 Wave count: 10 WT=53 AT=65 Wx: High hazy clouds Tide: Out going (0.76' to .17') Wind: Light NW Sea Surface: Glassy to mottled Buoy: 0900: 7.5 @ 10 NW 1000: 7.2 @ 9.1 NW 1100: 6.6 @ 8.3 WNW Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) TP1: Rock reef

May 20 (Su) 2007

Wave drought broke early Sunday AM. It wasn't a lot and it wasn't real pretty but after eleven days out of the water it was fun, surfable waves. This beachbreak (not pictured here) has a long, narrow and deep channel about 10yards offshore that runs parallel to the shoreline for 100's of yards. Sandbars are in place makai of the channel. Waves break off the outer bar for a short, fast ride and then die off in the channel before crashing over in the shore pound. It might be different at low tide.

May 20, 2007 (Su) In: 1345 1st Wave: 1354 Out: 1515 Wave count: 10 WT=52.5 AT=72 Wx: Sunny, clear, warm Tide: Incoming (3.4' to 4.1') Wind: Light to mod NW Sea Surface: Choppy from outer waters wind Buoy: 1300: 6.9 @ 12.9 WNW 1400: 6.2 @ 12.9 WNW 1500: 7.5 @ 10.8 NW 1600: 5.9 @ 12.9 WNW Quad Fish VPA: Beach break

May 18 (F) 2007

Six inches high,
six inches deep,
six feet from shore.

I gotta get one of these...

May 15-16-17 (Tu, W, Th) 2007

poem from 3to5setsof7:

Spring, spring, has fully sprung
Conditions stink like fresh hot dung
Crappy slop from the bottom rung
I’m just a hungry dog draggin his tongue
Looking for a clean hole instead of the bung

Here's something to get us through this...not the best waves but it's soulful...

May 12-13-14, 2007 (Sa, Su, M)

Flat.
Flat.
Flat.
Did I say flat?
NorPac doing it's best imitation of Lake Tahoe.
Hope on the horizon. Wind kicking up in the Gulf.
Here and here.
Cali dreamin'.

May 9-10-11, 2007 (W-F)

Red
Rust
Root beer
Ginger ale
Stink
Plankton
Algae
Yes
No
Socal too
Flat
Windblown
Junk

May 8, 2007 (Tu)

Hot air temps and a warming sea combined with clear, sunny skies to birth an algae bloom. Large swathes of copper red bands are painting the bay with odoriferous stripes of tiny living organisms. Breaking waves spill copper tinged whitewater. Wind is up a little producing a few small but ridable waves. In the image the sea looks blue but there is a lot of brown-red there.

May 8, 2007 (Tu) In: 1228 1st Wave: 1230 Out: 1333 Wave count: 20 WT=57.2 AT=78 Wx: Sunny, clear, hot Tide: Incoming (.9' to 1.72') Wind: Light to mod NW Sea Surface: Bumpy Buoy: 1200: 3.9 @ 10 NW 1300: 4.3 @ 9.1 WNW 1400: 3.6 @ 9.1 NW Quad Fish VPA: Beach break

May 7, 2007 (M)

Hot and flat. Even the beaches are listless. Just people taking the day off from work. No ground swell, no wind swell, no wind, no waves.

May 6, 2007 (Su)

SoCal comes to NorCal. Hot and windless. Uncrowded beachbreak. Sweet.

May 6, 2007 (Su) In: 1245 1st Wave: 1249 Out: 1415 Wave count: 10++ WT=53.2 AT=55 Wx: Sunny, clear, hot Tide: Low to High @ 3.1' Wind: None Sea Surface: Glassy with some bumps Buoy: 1200: 5.9 @ 8.3 NW 1300: 5.9 @ 9.1 WNW 1400: 5.2 @ 9.1 WNW Quad Fish VPA: Beach break

May 3, 2007 (Th)

Clean sunny day. Swell up, tide low. No more big wind at the dateline in the Gulf. Get it while you can.

May 3, 2007 (Th) In: 0854 1st Wave: 0901 Out: 1015 Wave count: 11 WT=53.4 AT=53 Wx: Sunny, clear, some clouds Tide: 1.1 to 2.1 Wind:Light northwest Sea Surface: rippled Buoy: 0900: 9.8 @ 13.8 WNW 1000: 10.5 @ 16 NW 1100: 10.8 @ 14.8 NW Quad Fish Traights/2P-PP: Reef, sand over reef

May 2, 2007 (W)

Overcast, light rain to drizzle swell drops, not much there.

	May 2, 2007 (W)
	In:
	1st Wave:
	Out:
	Wave count:
	WT=53.4
	AT=53.6
	Wx: Light rain and drizzle
	Tide: .86 @ 0753
	Wind:calm to light
	Sea Surface: Glassy
	Buoy:
	0700 3.3@10 WNW

Board:
Location:

Freeline Quad Fish

Freeline Design Santa Cruz. Shaper: John Mel. #11624. Specs: 6'0" X 16 3/4 X 21 1/4 X 17 X 2 1/2
Bottom Contour: Slight nose concave for lift into triplane into v.
Paddles and catches waves like a bigger board. Very stable, very fast.
Board is loose and transitions smoothly from rail to rail which is how it is surfed.
Currently surfed with Future Vector Scimitar 451 fronts and Pivot 3 3/4 rear trailer fins.

May 1 2007 Beachbreak

Small peaks and corners at one of the local beach breaks. Sunny, glassy, long clean beach, cold, clear water warming to summer. Caught a lot of waves, one very good left and one very good right. Good workout. Surfed the six foot quad fish...lots of fun. No one out but me and about two hundred birds.

May 1, 2007 (Tu) In: 0845 1st Wave: 0849 Out: 1005 Wave count: 10++ WT=53 AT=52 Wx: Sunny, clear Tide: rising 2 to 3 Wind:calm to light Sea Surface: Glassy Buoy: 0800 4.6@11.4 NW 0900 4.6@10.8 WNW 1000 4.3@11.4 WNW Quad Fish VPA:Beachbreak