G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Back to the Beaches in Summer Wx Redux

If the weather was the stock market, we'd all be rich. I spent the last two mornings surfing in small, wind driven beach break. The pattern is, clear blue sky morning with offshore wind. Low to rising tide putting up 2 -4 ft. fun waves in somewhat bumpy conditions (especially today, Thursday).

Surfing the beaches is a lot like fishing. You never really know what you're going to get from moment to moment. Will that set break over the sand bar lined up with the two houses, or will it swing wide and close out in the channel? Each set is different. That's why some folks never surf the beaches, they hate the inconsistency...but when it's the only game in town?

Yesterday's sea surface was smoother, with just a bit of a bump on the surface...waves were a little bigger. Today was a different story though. First 25 minutes were smooth with consistent peelers. Then it got weird. It never completely deteriorated but at 30 minutes into the session a white cap producing rip washed right through my spot. Washboard sea surface all around. Then that finally drifted down current, only to be replaced with what I can only call an "east swell." (My two cents on this is that it's blowing pretty hard out of the east which is energizing (literally) an easterly wind swell. This mixed with a weak WNW wind swell is putting up enough competition to be clearly visible, and felt, in the line-up.)

Things got too crowded for conditions at about an hour and a half so I called it a day and headed in. Diversity...ya gotta love it.
Jan 28, 2009 (W)
In: 0820
Out: 0920
AT= 42 to 50F
WT= 54F
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: 4' Rising to 4.6'
Wind: Offshore to calm
Sea Surface: Wind ripples and some bump
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0800: 2.6 feet @ 12.5 WNW
0830: 2.3 feet @ 13.3 W
0900: 2.6 feet @ 13.3 W
0930: 2.6 feet @ 11.8 W
1000: 2.6 feet @ 12.5 W

Jan 29, 2009 (Th)
In: 0807
Out: 0945
AT= 44 to 54F
WT= 53F
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: 3' Rising to 4'
Wind: Offshore
Sea Surface: Wind ripples and bumpy
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0800: 2.0 feet @ 11.1 WNW
0830: 2.6 feet @ 11.1 WNW
0900: 2.6 feet @ 11.1 WNW
0930: 2.6 feet @ 11.1 WNW
1000: 2.3 feet @ 10.5 WNW

Monday, January 26, 2009

The Last of Swell #4

The last of the NPAC gales slipped into the bay mixed with local wind swell, putting up 2 - 4 ft. peelers, with some head high waves this afternoon/evening. I'm back in the water after fighting a cold all week long, still horking and spitting up some green stuff, but for the most part blowing out my sinuses with cold ocean water mixed with snot.

Water temp has warmed a bit, and air temp is chilly, but with the southwest winds and offshores blowing, my fingers got pretty numb near the end of the session. I surfed just about all the spots on the reefs: Sarges, Middles, Casa, GDubs and Yellow House. Got some fun waves at all the places. Didn't stay long at Sarges early, too crowded and one entitlement oriented longboard fossil who just highlighted the fact that life is too short to put up with some people without getting paid for it. Better to just move on for a while.

It always seems to work out for the best though, as my relocation yielded some fast zippers in the lowering tide at the three up-reef spots I surfed. As the tide lowered the kelp became more rapacious than ever, so after getting yanked off the back of my board twice from leash/kelp entanglements, I paddled down to Yellow House and surfed some tinys for a while.

For some reason (low tide and kelp madness no doubt) everyone got out of the water about ten to five, which is when the wind shifted offshore, the sunset colors got good, and some really nice, fast and hollow chest high waves started to consistently pour over the reefs at Casa's. Sarges was just too shallow to surf, with the inside waves breaking on dry reef. But Casa's was on and the two main sections were barreling. I made about a third of the waves I rode, and had one helluva good time trying to figure out how to make the other 2/3rds. It's really fun and challenging setting up for the next going square section on the big board, even if the odds are against you. And how many guys out? Two, and he was surfing another peak. More than sweet!
Jan 26, 2009 (M)
In: 1420
Out: 1745
AT= 55 to 51F
WT= 54F
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: 1' Falling to -.6' Rising slightly
Wind: West south westerlies at 1 to 8 mph, to calm to offshore
Sea Surface: Light wind rippling
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Bathymetry: Reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
1430: 5.6 feet @ 14.3 W
1500: 5.9 feet @ 14.3 W
1530: 5.2 feet @ 14.3 W
1600: 5.6 feet @ 10.5 WNW
1630: 5.2 feet @ 11.1 WNW
1700: 5.2 feet @ 13.3 W
1730: 4.9 feet @ 11.8 WNW
1800: 5.9 feet @ 11.8 WNW

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

More Fun Waves In Swell #3 Remnants

Around noon, M and I walked Cloud at the low tide on Platty's Beach. Waves were pouring in one after the other, head high plus, pounding shut, no shoulders, no sand bars. Looking across the bay at the point I could see clearly lines of whitewater folding into the cliffs. Still surf eh?

I paddled out at 3PM. Sarges had consistent little waist to chest high waves...four guys out. What a difference (and welcome relief) a non-holiday, mid-afternoon Tuesday makes. Even if it is Inauguration Day. GoBama! Surfed those fun little peelers for an hour before the after work crew started filtering in. When the body count hit eight I moved over to Casa's and got some nice ones for pretty much the rest of the session, periodically switching from Casa's to GDubs and back to Sarges...just doing the circuit, never staying in one place for too long.

Good pics are hard to come by in the afternoons, there's so much glare, it just turns the surfers into black silhouettes. I missed a good one of Ron getting completely shacked on an inside Sarges zipper. You just don't see many tube rides at that spot, so it was good to get a mind pic at least.
Jan 20, 2009 (T)
In: 1506
Out: 1715
AT= 69 to 72F to 63F
WT= 54F
Wx: Sunny and clear with some high wispy clouds
Tide: .9' Rising to 2.2'
Wind: South westerlies at calm to 2 mph
Sea Surface: Mostly glassy
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Bathymetry: Reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
1530: 4.9 feet @ 14.3 W
1600: 6.2 feet @ 12.5 W
1630: 4.9 feet @ 11.1 W
1700: 5.2 feet @ 14.3 W
1730: 5.6 feet @ 13.3 W

Monday, January 19, 2009

Fun Waves in Perfect "Summer" Weather

"Big" Swell #3 lasted for a day before dropping in size, and more or less holding constant for the next couple days. On Saturday the swell put up some pretty good numbers and some moderate head high/just overhead waves. On the downside was the fact that this was one of the most well advertised swell events of the hyperbole. It was also a three-day weekend in unusually miraculous, warm and sunny weather. The crowds were massed like ants on the leftover cheesecake you forgot to put back in the fridge.

I surfed for four hours today in very fun small waves with friends and new acquaintances. I paddled out at noon-thirty and it actually got warmer as the wind switched around and gradually died in the late afternoon around 4PM. I suppose my best waves were late in the session, back at Sarges. By that time there were only a dozen or so people out, and they were sitting pretty far out, hedging towards Middles a lot. Swell direction was such that the section the guys outside couldn't get through, set up nicely for me, standing further in. I picked up a half-dozen chest/head high waves with multiple bowls before calling it a day about quarter to five. I was beat, and the crowd significantly thickened about four-thirty.

Prior to that I spent half the session at Yellow House, SUPing with Andy, Art and Sam in very small but fun knee slappers. Just the kind of waves that are perfect for a SUP. Not much of a challenge, but a "10" on the fun scale. Again there was enough west in the swell to put up sets at YH that didn't pass through the upper reefs, so in that sense surfing was better at YH today than last Saturday when it was much bigger.

The waves were fun and plentiful, and the atmosphere relaxed and mellow. We all swapped boards, each trying out the other's SUP. I rode Art's 2008 Angulo 10-8 and had forgotten what a fun board that one was. Really an easy wave catcher, very stable, easy to turn and fun down the line wave rider. I caught a few on Andy's beautiful hand made Wave Yarder too. At forty pounds you've got to put some muscle into getting it going and turning it, but once you develop trim speed, watch out!

A couple lay down surfers paddled over in an inflatable raft, surfboards in tow. They were just screwing around, having fun in the great weather, catching a few waves, taking pics when I saw one of the guys trying to knee paddle his longboard using a canoe paddle. I paddled over and asked him if he wanted to try my SUP. He was into it. Nick is a local who lives on the Avenues and like most young guy good surfers, took to it like a duck to water. He was up and paddling and catching his first wave in ten minutes. Like most honest guys who try stand up, he confessed almost immediately that it wasn't as easy as it looked and...that he'd wanted to try stand up for a while. Cool. Good to see more young guys overcome the nascent SUP prejudice that's out there and see what it's like to have this much fun in the ocean.

On that note, Surftech John was out early at Sarges, and his kids were out on SUPs. Really good to see the groms stand up paddling. John's kids do it all: stand up, shortboard and longboard. Junior rippers! They've got a good teacher in their Dad too. In my book he's the best stand up paddle surfer in Norcal. His style is grace and elegance defined, without the hubris you see embedded in the body language of so many local surf "stars."
Jan 19, 2009 (M)
In: 1220
Out: 1645
AT= 71 to 74F
WT= 53F
Wx: Sunny and clear
Tide: .75' Rising to 2.4'
Wind: SW/SE and calm 1-3mph
Sea Surface: Glassy to light southeast wind chop, to glassy
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Bathymetry: Reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
1300: 4.9 feet @ 13.3 W
1330: 6.2 feet @ 14.3 W
1400: 5.2 feet @ 15.4 W
1430: 5.2 feet @ 14.3 W
1500: 5.2 feet @ 14.3 W
1530: 5.2 feet @ 15.4 W
1600: 6.9 feet @ 12.4 W
1630: 6.9 feet @ 13.3 W
1700: 6.6 feet @ 14.3 W

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Stand Up Paddleboard Reviews

Before I launch into my review of the Angulo 10-2 Perfect Wave stand up paddle board (SUP), a few essential points must be made, firstly about me. I am a 62 year old, life long surfer, having started at age 16 in Southern California. I am in excellent physical condition and work at it. I have owned and surfed all kinds of surfboards, and I have never advanced beyond the skill level of advanced intermediate recreational surfer. I am an amateur student of surfboard design and production and most things related to the sport of surfing.

Second, all surfboard/paddleboard reviews are personal and subjective and should be viewed with a skeptical eye. Not all reviews are without bias or an agenda. (In the interest of full disclosure it must be stated that I produce and maintain the Angulo SUP blog. Other than that, I have no other affiliation with the surfing industry.) No review can ever take the place of your own good judgment and needs. Needs are personal and change with time, therefore what you think of a paddleboard now, may change in six months based upon various conditions and facts (like you are a lot better at stand up paddle surfing after doing it for a year than you were when you started).

Finally, when considering the purchase of a SUP, Try Before You Buy! Most reputable dealers, and those who are in it for the long run, will have demo days, or boards you can try. Many sellers will take you out paddling. Getting your feet on the board, and paddling it in the water is always the best way to do your research on any individual board you are considering. After all, these things are expensive!

Angulo 10-2 Perfect Wave Stand Up Paddleboard
Ed Angulo is the shaper of the Angulo line of SUPs. Ed is literally world famous, and all the famous shapers know him and vice versa. He has designed all manner of watercraft including SUPs, surfboards, and wind surfing boards for over 40 years. He has been in business on Maui for most his life. His family is involved in the surfing world as well. Son Josh is a world champion wind surfer and Mark is a well known and respected surfer and shaper on Maui. Ed knows his stuff, and you won't get a bad design or board from Ed Angulo....i.e. you can trust him.

To date, Ed has designed two lines of SUPs. His first line came out in late 2007 and became the 2008 model year SUPs. The full line of these composite production boards is sold. They are available only as used models, where ever and if you can find them. His second and more progressive line hit the market in 2008. Ed has steadily made design improvements which have been well received by "Angulophytes" the world over. Ed is always in full design mode and has pre-production models in various stages of refinement in his Hawaii shop. Currently his 2009/2010 line includes a 9-8 high performance model, and a 10' noserider model. These boards are not yet available, but will be available later this year. For more information on the Angulo line of stand up paddleboards, check out the Angulo blog periodically.

The Angulo 10-2 Perfect Wave is the current Angulo full performance model. It is designed primarily to surf waves of almost any size that a recreational SUP surfer might find. The design is a big leap forward over it's nearest last ancestor, the Angulo 10-4 Olohe. Some differences include:
  • Two inches shorter
  • Pulled in nose
  • Overall faster shape
  • Double wing pin tail
  • Increased tail and nose rocker
  • More radical double concave bottom, blended to vee out the tail
  • Dropped rails
  • Shockingly bright orange paint job (you'll never lose this board!)
Paddle-ability vs. Surf-ability
The holy grail in board design for a stand up paddle board built primarily to surf is that it would be a loose, high performance carving platform that would be stable and easy to paddle in all but the roughest sea conditions. (It just isn't that much fun to have a SUP that surfs like a shortboard, but is so difficult to stand on that you wear yourself out in a short time just balancing on it, and then climbing back on it over and over again. ) To date, no board I have ridden, and no board currently on the market meets the holy grail criteria for the average SUP surfer. But with the increased interest in the surfing community in stand up paddle surfing, there is no doubt that the march towards the holy grail is in full effect, and we are getting closer.

As a progressive shaper, Ed is fully aware of all the nuances and needs in SUP surfing. But he is also a pragmatist, having learned from many years of making a living in the surfboard industry. Because SUP is new, Ed did not want to design and create a SUP that was so advanced no one could ride it. That is one of his primary criteria. He wants to lead and grow with the community/industry, developing products that meet the needs of the end user. I believe he has done this with his stand up paddleboards. He will continue to innovate with the growth of the sport. Ed doesn't share with me all his thoughts and secrets, but his prototype 2009/2010 models incorporate advanced design elements like concave decks for lowered center of gravity thus enhancing stability, advanced rail design that maintains flotation but allows for loose carving and ease of maneuverability, and even more radical bottom designs that are fast, yet stable.

Greatest Strengths of the 10-2 Angulo Perfect Wave - Stability and Speed
While the 10-2 is only slightly less stable than it's 10-4 parent, the increase in speed (and maneuverability) is almost night and day. The primary difficulty in surfing the 10-2 is usually slowing it down. Fortunately, due to enough rocker, directional changes, while not considered radically loose and flexible, can be accomplished enough in order to meet the demands of good surfing.

The 10-2 is truly an "all around" (AA) surfing SUP, in that the board will surf all kinds of waves, in almost all sizes very well. I have surfed the 10-2 in double overhead big swell, as well as dinky, ankle slapping weak wind swell. The board handles late and steep takeoffs quite well, and gets up to speed very quickly. Conversely, it is a fun and stable paddler, one that you could use for coastal or lake cruises, or even the occasional short to medium distance races. (That said, I wouldn't recommend the 10-2 for a person who primarily wants to paddle and not surf. I would point those persons to the Angulo 10-10 or 11-11.)

At 24 pounds the 10-2 is of an average to lighter weight for a composite construction board. The 2008 line is manufactured by Cobra, the same business that produces the Surftech boards. The 10-2 is four (4) pounds lighter than the 10-4, and for a person who only weights 150 pounds (that would be me) this is a lot of weight savings.

While I would not call the 10-2 a full performance SUP from the surfboard world perspective (and there are other SUPs out there that are more maneuverable) much can be done to loosen up the board with fins. The 10-2 is made with two Future Fins fin slots, and a standard longboard center fin box. The selection and use of fins is highly personal but I have found that as a general rule, my 10-2 is much more maneuverable and I can "throw it around" much more easily using a thruster type fin set-up. I can also use a 2+1 set-up which provides additional drive and stability for surfing larger waves.

But the bottom line on maneuverability is that the 10-2 is a bit stiffer than loose, more solid than squirrelly and a good choice for the SUP surfer who is just starting or up to the beginning advanced stages of his/her SUP surfing journey. However, if your personal preference is not oriented towards modern era "shortboard-like" performance, the 10-2 will provide the thrills and satisfaction you are seeking in a performance SUP.

The earlier line of Angulo SUPs was manufactured in China. I owned the 10-4 and in my opinion it was bombproof. That was one tough stand up paddleboard. Paint chipping comes with the territory with this type of construction, and I did have some chipping which I was able to fix quite easily with Surftech touch up paint (white). The only crack in the composite construction I received was from a hellacious crash (my fault) with another Angulo SUP (11-9) which sustained no damage whatsoever.

I'm not as happy with the Cobra product primarily because along with the requisite paint chips (which come from my poor paddling techniques and off balance rail whacks) I have received several very small, non-leaking cracks in the pvc sheet wrap. They are more a nuisance than anything else, but it causes me to think that the build is slightly less durable than the 2008 line of Chinese built production boards.

Also, Angulo does not currently provide touch up paints for any of it's SUPs, something I wish they would do. But, the alternative is to take your board in (kind of a hassle) to Home Depot or another outfit that sells paint, and have the color you need matched with their scanning software.

In this world you get what you pay for...if you're lucky. The Angulo product is well designed, and well built. Angulo SUPs will be around for a while, and they are constantly evolving to meet the needs and demands of the growing SUP paddling and SUP surfing community. I personally am very satisfied with my Angulo boards. They do what they say they'll do, and have provided me with hours and hours of ocean going paddling and surfing recreation, and physical fitness workouts that are inspiring and (most importantly) fun!

For more info on Angulo boards, or to demo any of the Angulo boards in the current model line-up, contact Andy at Santa Cruz Boardworks...831-419-1091 or email him at

I couldn't wait for the 2010 noserider production model. In February, I will receive an Angulo AVBT - EPS/epoxy 10' noserider. I'm also first on the list to receive the new 9-8 high performance production SUP this summer.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Under Performing, Over Hyped Swell #3

On a weekend that was supposed to produce the Mavericks contest, the Eddie at Waimea and some big wave fete at Peahi, the only thing we got (so far) was moderate ground swell that was, most of the time, on par with a good wind swell.

The long awaited and wave drought breaking Swell #3 peaked just before sunrise this morning, and proceeded to weaken from there. What a disappointment. To say that the crowd was on it is the understatement of the century. This swell got all the press a promoter could dream of. And the regular crew was on it too...surfed with Whitty, Joanna and Sean, Jamie, John, Andrew, Tim, Sam, Andy, other locals I can't remember right now, and a bunch of weekenders who I don't see very often because I don't often surf the weekends if I can get good waves during the week when it's less crowded.

Sets were populated with the most waves, and had the best wave size early on. I bagged a couple nice head high walls right off the bat. I surfed Sarges and paddled back and forth between there and Casa Roja for most of the session, although I did finish up in some small knee slappers down at Yellow House. (I love that place.) My best wave of the day came fairly early at Casa's with an overhead bomb that I found a fast line on, and just ripped my way through three very nice, fast sections. Since there was lot's of waiting around, the pack down at Sarge's all witnessed the wave and I got a round of "nice wave" from a couple of the regulars. Always nice to get a pat on the back, especially from da boyz.

All in all though, my complaints are small. And it was definitely good to be back on the dawn patrol, though it won't last long. I haven't surfed a sunrise in a while. It just don't get better than sunrise surfing into a clean and crisp morning full of fun waves.

Originally forecast to send us more waves into next week, I'm just hoping these swells can muster up the juice to actually provide some rideable town waves as advertised. But oh well, if not, back to the beaches.
Jan 17, 2009 (Sa)
In: 0706
Out: 1045
AT= 44 to 60F
WT= 52.7F
Wx: Sunny and clear
Tide: 2.5' Falling to 1.2, Rising to 1.5'
Wind: Calm to light offshores, then light east/southeasterlies
Sea Surface: Light backwash bump
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Bathymetry: Reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0730: 5.9 feet @ 18.2 W
0800: 5.9 feet @ 18.2 W
0830: 5.9 feet @ 15.4 W
0900: 5.9 feet @ 16.7 WNW
0930: 5.9 feet @ 16.7 W
1000: 5.9 feet @ 16.7 W
1030: 5.6 feet @ 15.4 W
1100: 5.2 feet @ 15.4 W

Monday, January 12, 2009

Wave Size Drops In-half; Conditions Perfect

Wave heights dropped in half this morning as the perfect weather and temps ramped up. Off shores blew all morning. Temps were fully ten degrees warmer this morning than my last session. I was almost too warm in my 5/4 until I realized the water was still 51.8 degrees.
With the drop in surf and swell size, and the high tide paddle out, waves were weak and mushy
compared to the last several sessions at the beaches. But it was still fun, and I got a ton of waves. Firefightin' Bruddah Joe was on shore taking some pics which was cool. I wish the waves had been a bit more challenging, but whatever, the pics will be fun to have. Thanks Joe!

Swell is forecast to keep on weakening for the next several days. All the forecasters are calling for 20 foot waves near the end of the week. Guess I'll do chores this week and get ready
for the big swell.
Jan 12, 2009 (M)
In: 0820
Out: 0935AT= 53.2 to 59F
WT= 52F
Wx: Sunny with patchy cloudsTide: 5.3' Rising to 6.1'
Wind: Strong offshores
Sea Surface: Light bhackwash bump and some wind ripples
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Bathymetry: Reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP ArchiveBuoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0830: 4.6 feet @ 14.3 WNW
0900: 4.3 feet @ 12.5 WNW
0930: 3.6 feet @ 14.3 W
1000: 4.3 feet @ 13.3 WNW
1030: 3.9 feet @ 13.3 WNW
1100: 3.9 feet @ 13.3 WNW

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Beautiful Weather Sets In

Warm weather with unseasonably high temps took hold today. Wind was light all day, favoring offshore with a high pressure gradient sitting over Nevada. The other high pressure ridge is parked over the Pacific, forcing anything nasty away from us.

A wind swell rolled in from the northwest delivering 5-7 foot surf at the beaches and much smaller waves in town except for the best spots which were sometimes about the same size.

Here's a few pics from my after church surf check around 12:30P.

Friday, January 9, 2009

More Fun Waves At The Beaches

This morning was almost what I would call the perfect Winter morning. It was cold to start, but warmed up fast. Not a cloud in the sky. The wind blew from every direction of the compass, starting out a brisk offshore, then turning onshore briefly, switching for a time to north (side shore) and then changing again, this time remaining consistent from the north east (side offshore) for the remainder of the two and a half hour session.

The moon is full, and so was the tide which is when I paddled out. The swell has lost a little energy from day before yesterday, but come up a bit from yesterday. I figured the waves would be a bit smaller, but breaking with nice shape over the same sand bars which are still in place...including that nice channel. I was right on all counts, and the waves were definitely four to six in the good sets.

Surfed the first hour by myself before Eric paddled out. He had his Arrow longboard this morning, replacing the quad from last session. He picked up some nice rides and fine looking drops before paddling in for work. Only three of us out from then until the two hour mark, before the place kind of got inundated. Went from three to nine peeps real fast.

Beach break is definitely interesting surf. Patience is a virtue. You gotta wait for the right wave to get the best rides. I completely mis-judged about three really good waves by either taking off too late and getting smashed, not riding hard enough on the inside rail and getting smashed, or letting a super nice wall go by and missing out complete. But still, tons of rides and a beautiful session.

Jan 9, 2009 (F)
In: 0820
Out: 1050
AT= 42F to 53F
WT= 51.8F
Wx: Sunny
Tide: 6.6' Dropping to 3.6'
Wind: Offshore to light onshore to easterly then north, finally north easterly.
Sea Surface: Backwash bump and some wind ripples
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Bathymetry: Reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0830: 4.6 feet @ 12.5 WNW
0900: 4.6 feet @ 11.8 WNW
0930: 4.3 feet @ 11.8 WNW
1000: 4.6 feet @ 11.1 WNW
1030: 4.3 feet @ 12.5 WNW
1100: 4.3 feet @ 11.8 WNW