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G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Saturday, January 30, 2010

More Sand Bar Action

Friday, January 29, 2010

The new swell was forecast to continue increasing in size today, so I hit the beaches early before it got too big. Sure enough, wave hts. were twice the size of yesterday, and with the new 17 second swell, wave energy was two to three times yesterday's 10 second period energy.

At 0815 two shortboarders were already on the California Bar...and they were ripping in the 3-6 ft. wave faces. The bigger sets were well overhead, and getting caught inside was too much work for me on a shorter board. (Besides, my back was pretty "worked" from yesterday's session.) But there was another sand bar just north of the CB. It looked smaller and longboard-able, but didn't quite have the clean and racy down the line shape of the Cali Bar. No matter, no one was on it and the longboard was a more stable platform for me this morning.

Again like yesterday, one had to wait for the sets. The inside waves looked good, but they were really slow until you got into the shore break. And taking the risk of being caught inside by a group of 4-6 ft. set waves just wasn't worth it. So, I waited outside. The McTavish with the DeTemple single center fin worked well. While it is more stable, the big single fin doesn't provide the maneuverability that a 2+1 set-up does. But, I wanted to surf it that way again. The take-offs were mostly soft and the ride into long walls with a couple sections to bank off were fun. It didn't seem like the rides were really all that long, but by the time I kicked out, I was way down the beach and ready for a decent paddle out the back.



As per forecast, the wave hts. continued to build as the tide came in even further. Early the wind had been calm to offshore, but by the time I was done around 0930, the wind was shifting to sideshore/onshore and there was a little more unfavorable wind chop on the sea surface. Overall a really fun morning surf, squeaking in a session while the squeaking was good.

January 29, 2010
In: 0830
Out: 0930
AT= 49-50F
WT= 55.6F
Wx: Overcast and low clouds to partly cloudy
Tide: 6.7' Rising to 6.73'
Wind: Offshore to variable and light
Sea Surface: Glassy to some surface wind chop
McTavish (PU) 9-3 Fireball
Fin set-up: Single 9" DeTemple
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 4-6 ft.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Lots Of Sandbars in Play

The recent days of waves, storms and rains have moved an astonishing tonnage of sand along the shore. Seawalls that were showing six feet of open face wall are in some places, packed with sand to their top. Concrete and steel stairways are buried at their beachside terminus in three or four feet of sand, with the handrails no longer even showing. Conversely, erosion at one walled community has revealed 15 feet of rip-rap that has been entombed in sand for at least three years. But the payoff for we surfers is a myriad of new sand bars peppering the beach for miles down the coast, starting at the end of the bight. Eureka...we have found it!

Pick your bar, any bar. I surfed an area that has literally been fallow for three years. Only the desperate were riders there in the past, with endless closeouts and lack of shape that would make a muu-muu look like high fashion. Word is getting out. It started Sunday with only a handful of surfers on it. Today the chosen peaks were littered with surfboards, eight, nine, ten guys surfing this peak or that.

I bypassed the crowd in favor of a smaller, orphaned peak (which I nicknamed the California Bar) that nobody wanted. My nearly two hour surf yielded as many rides as the somewhat inconsistent surf would allow. Sea surface conditions weren't the best, because when you get open stretches of beach with open ocean exposure, you can get rougher sea surfaces. Especially since with new sand bars you get channels. My spot was no exception with a channel and rip in attendance the whole time.



But the best waves were putting up myriad little bowl sections with a big cutback and foam ride into the reform and speedy hollow beach break that put up some long, long rides. I was on my 5-11 mini-Simmons which was the perfect board to ride today. This board is meant for waves like this that vacillate from steep and fast to sluggish and boggy. But the board accelerates through the fast sections and floats through the boggy foamy lines, no problem. In short....I had a blast.

Some pics from yesterday and some from today.

January 28, 2010
In: 1045
Out: 1230
AT= 54-56F
WT= 55.8F
Wx: Mostly sunny with some high thin hazy clouds
Tide: 4.27' Falling to 1.29'
Wind: Variable and light
Sea Surface: Some surface chop and adverse rip currents
5-11 Freeline Mini-Simmons
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 2-3 ft. with some 4 ft. set waves

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Dolphins At Play

Thanks to Jeff for sending this, it's just too good not to share. Maybe we should re-think party waves?

Saturday, January 23, 2010

A Quick Surf In Between Storms

After struggling with the pellet stove that refuses to burn right, I looked at the clock. 3:30...still time for a surf if I get on it now. So I bailed on the mess (wife's out of town, I'll clean it up later) threw all my gear (the SUP and McTavish already in her van) and made a hasty departure for Sarges.

I saw all I wanted to see when I rounded the curve at the old China Town fishing village. Not nearly as much wind chop as this morning. I had switched out the 9" center fin and sidebites on the McTavish and put in the 9" DeTemple fin...I was chompin' at the bit to see how it would ride. The waves weren't great, but the swell was still up, and conditions greatly improved over this mornings big swell, lumpy and choppy sea surface mess.

Not many folks out this afternoon, just a handful really. Dave and Larry were out on their SUPs, taking down some nice waves, along with a couple other longboarders who knew what they were doing. Wave hts. were chest to some overhead, but sets were still stormy, with waves breaking close together due to the nearshore storm winds that were now calming before the next round of winds and rains made landfall.

I surfed for an hour and fifteen and grabbed a half dozen waves, two of them 500 yard rides from the point to the brown house. Wave faces weren't smooth, there was still a lot of wind chop on the walls, and a cross chop from the rising tide. But there was room to maneuver, climb and drop and get a feel for the new fin. I was looking for a more stable ride and I got it. Attendant was a loss of maneuverability over the 2+1 set-up, which I expected. Riding further forward on the nose was greatly improved as I discovered when I tried to drop around a falling section on an overhead bomb, and got caught behind the whitewater. I stuck with it, trying to find the fastest line, and moved forward on the board as it seemed I was too far back, and beginning to bog. The board (and fin) responded well, lifting up, then accelerating and dogging it's way into the clear water of the shoulder after a good fight in the wash. Stoke! It works! The board handled the post-storm surf chop real well, better than I thought it might, given the boards overall template. It's gonna be a good all-rounder.



Earlier...I hit it at first light, hoping that the dawn patrol wind wouldn't be as bad as it turned out to be. I made the rounds, taking pics and enjoying the raw beauty of it all. Two guys at Scimi's paddling in the chop and riding overhead, wind blown nearly storm surf, that was so full of ledges that when they could paddle in, they just dropped from ledge to ledge down the face.

My next to last stop was at Sarges just to look. There I spent a good hour with the boyz, chit-chatting, making small talk and being grossly boyish. Gray, me, Herby and Dr. Weiner (publisher of the new mag, Weiner Digest, soon to be on magazine shelves everywhere) were in good form. No one wanted to paddle out except Herby, who kept trying to psych himself up and get someone to go with him. No takers.

A couple weekend warriors were out and getting nothing, going nowhere except down current. An entitled local made his way through our clot of "helpful" jokers, only to be told an impossible paddle out "short cut" that kept him trapped inside for 45 minutes. Last we saw him he was rounding the point, exhausted and heading for a down current, pier remove. Bastards! It wasn't me...really.

It rained a little, cleared up a little, and we all headed elsewhere to figure out what we could do until we could surf again.

China Beach was sheltered from the worst of the wind and had something to ride. Hardly anyone on it, and although it wasn't great, it was better than nothing for the five guys who were surfing. Not for me though. I tucked it in and headed home, ready to tackle the pellet stove...again.

January 23, 2010
In: 1605
Out: 1715
AT= 55.6-54.1F
WT= 55.2F
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: 0.22' Rising to 1.3'
Wind: Variable and light
Sea Surface: Some surface wind chop and backwash
McTavish (PU) 9-3 Fireball
Fin set-up: Single 9" DeTemple
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 5-7 ft.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Board Review: McTavish 9-3 Fireball


Dims: 9-3 X 19 1/4 X 23 X 16 X 3.
Fins: 9" center, FCS GX sides.
Glassing: 6 and 6 on top; 4 and a 4 oz patch on the bottom. Polyurethane foam core.
Designed and shaped by Bob McTavish; built by GSI.

Half the fun of buying and surfing a new board, is doing the research and deciding which one to get. I wanted to add a longboard to my quiver for fun, a change of pace, and to surf places where my SUP is not welcome. I've long been an admirer of Steve Walden and Bob McTavish as surfers, shapers and designers (and astute businessmen too). So I took my time and really enjoyed checking out the two boards that made the finals: the McTavish Fireball, and the Walden Magic.

Freeline had both boards in various lengths in stock so I could lay my hands on each, and fully measure them out. One big concern was rocker. My friend Jeff had cautioned me about the McTavish boards...too much rocker, too hard to paddle and therefore not the best wave catcher. We were talking in the context of a specific wave we've surfed, and I wanted to use my new purchase to surf that wave, so his opinion was important. Balancing that out though was the fact that I wasn't going to be able to surf "that wave" very often, and I couldn't afford to be that wave specific. The board had to be more of an all-arounder. Also, I really don't like boards with straight rocker. Yeah, they're fast down the line, fast paddlers and very traditional, but what I like to do, is as much climbing and dropping as I can. Without adequate rocker, the board is just too stiff for my preferences. So imagine my surprise when the Walden Magic measured up with more rocker than the Fireball. That pretty much turned the tide towards the Fireball. (Bob has a lot of videos on You Tube, covering almost all his boards. He's an articulate guy (not just a salesman pushing his boards) so I watched them all.)

At first I was going to go with the 9-1 (me at 150 pounds). But in the end I decided for a little more length (9-3) for better paddling, and more of that longboard feel (read glide). Even though there was an EPS/epoxy Fireball in the rack, I went with the polyurethane (PU) old school construction, again for that weightier longboard feeling. In the end, a traditional ride, with more modern longboard design elements was what I was looking for.

As I was paddling out for the first time, I kept thinking, "hey, this thing's only 7" shorter than my Angulo SUP!" And since my SUP is EPS and light for a standup paddleboard, the weight felt a lot the same. The bottom contours on both boards are very similar too, so perhaps not surprisingly, the boards share some of the same wave riding characteristics. McTavish designs have always intrigued me, and this board (especially the bottom) was no different.



McTavish calls it a three stage bottom (rocker), and each stage is distinctive. The nose is fully concave to enhance paddling and nose riding. The center stage or "engine" is double concave which adds lift and drive. The rear stage is the steering wheel and makes the board surprisingly maneuverable and loose. There's a lot of rocker in this stage and the bottom is still double concave, but with decidedly more vee in it than the center stage.

The plan shape is pleasing to the eye. Rounded pins have always been my favorite tail. I just think they work great and are truly a "one size fits all" tail design. The "tongue depressor" nose is so cool looking and always makes me think I'll be the nose rider I always wanted to be. (This has never actually happened though. Who knows, maybe this time?)

So, how does it ride? It always takes me a bit to get the feel of a new board. At first I was paddling from a position too far back on the deck, and wasn't easily catching waves. And on a 9-3 longboard catching waves should be no problem. Shizizit! Jeff was right I thought. Dammit, what have I done? But I readjusted, moving forward a little and finding a better balance point. From then on catching waves was no problem. Too far forward though had me pearling on one take-off, but as I popped up I weighted back and the nose resurfaced without incident.

The ride itself was smooth and stable with very easy bottom turns and turnbacks. The Fireball does not lack speed and making sections was fun and sure. I could stall back in the curl, run my had across the falling lip, then confidently drop under the lip and section, only to re-emerge and do it all over again. Turn backs almost felt too loose really, but the board responded well as it came about out of the bottom turn, and trimmed up on the wave face. I didn't feel any adverse effects from the centrifugal force of the swing weight as the nose came around. I was a little disappointed that there wasn't more of a bevel in the front section nose rail. This design is supposed to prevent the outside rail from catching as the board comes off a section and heads towards the trough, but it felt like I needed to be well aware of keeping that outside rail out of the water. My sense was that it wanted to go under.

I'm not much of a nose rider, so a "Noserider" is not what I wanted. But I was hoping for a little more stability on the nose than what I experienced during this first surf. On my second wave, I walked up to near the front third to trim through a section and it felt really unstable. I wobbled, bogged and got crushed by the falling lip. So much for that thought I. In all fairness I didn't try that again, instead I settled for wave catching and trimming, turning and surfing very conservatively. This isn't to condemn the board (after all I've only surfed it once) so things will change as I log more time on this stick, but sometimes great equipment will cover for lack of ability above and beyond what is reasonably expected. Maybe it will in future, but I'm probably expecting too much.

Overall I had a great first experience on this board and I'm looking forward to a lot more sessions on this fun and (almost) traditional longboard.

Friday, January 15, 2010

Clean and Fading Westerly Swell

Thursday January 14, 2010

After some careful research I pulled the trigger this afternoon on a new McTavish (PU) 9-3 Fireball longboard. (Click here for the review.) I was fortunate enough to try it out for my first surf in clean and glassy head high waves at Sarge's in the late afternoon until dark.

I paddled out a hair before 4PM and surfed until about 5:15. In what turned out to be a mistake at first, I tried to stay out of everyone's way and catch a few wide insiders just to get a feel for how the board worked. But the best waves were so perfectly lined up off the rip-rap point, I should've just gone there straight away. So after two waves (one of which was an unintentional take off and wipe out in front of another rider) I moved over to the right place and caught three perfectly lined up and long wall rides, each of which yielded up a kick out almost at the Yellow House. That's about a 400+ yard ride...each. Not bad.

It was one of those days when the crowd was fairly light, and everyone who could surf halfway well was getting good, long hooked up rides. So everybody was happy. Paddling back out to the line-up was like watching a good surf movie. The ride of the day came on Ross's long and ripping backside run from Tweenie's all the way to the Brown House. That one, a good 500 yards.

I've long been an admirer of Bob McTavish. Owning one of his shapes is a great addition to my quiver, and a chance to surf a board with tons of experience and knowledge built in. My research also included another possibility, the Walden Magic. Steve is another great surfer, designer and shaper. Known as the "Father of the Modern Longboard" by some, his basic Magic shape (created and refined in Hawaii in the early '70's) hasn't changed all that much. A testament to a board the truly must be "Magic." But more on all this in the review.

January 14, 2010
In: 1555
Out: 1715
AT= 62-58F
WT= 55.2F
Wx: Partly cloudy.
Tide: 1.14' Falling to -0.47' Rising to -0.44'
Wind: Variable and light
Sea Surface: Glassy
McTavish (PU) 9-3 Fireball
Fin set-up: Two plus one: 9" McTavish center; FCS G-X sides.
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 4-6 ft.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Next W/WNW Starts Up

Wednesday, January 10, 2010

No surfing for me today but I did get some shots and a lot of camaraderie, especially at Sarge's. Wayne, Ron and I hung out at the overlook, chin-wagging with each other and everyone that came by to look or to surf. Ralph and Mary took a long look and then made the arduous Victory at Sea paddle out. Kirk paddled out on his salmon colored SUP (not spared from a rigorous paddle out either), and joined the only other SUP guy on the blue board. Mr. Blueboard SUP got some great rides along with getting his clock cleaned numerous times because he was unable to make it over the biggest sets that came through. But he never gave up, and stayed out well past the time I left. There's hope for better conditions in good surf tomorrow.

Monday, January 11, 2010

3 Days of Good Surf

Sunday, January 10, 2010
Finally! I was beginning to think I'd never see another good day at the Yellow House, but that all changed today. It was a day, a spot, and a swell meant for SUP surfing. I was out from 11:30A (as the tide was draining to just the right level) to dark, 5:30PM. I figured I had to have caught and ridden at least 75, maybe even a hundred waves during this six hour marathon session, and they were almost all, good waves. (I had to make up for the fact that I didn't surf the good waves on Friday and Saturday.)

I never would have been able to pull off a six-hour session on my lay down surfboards. Two things: my back wouldn't hold up; and cold water (even with full rubber) takes too much out of anyone physically, especially in 55 degree water. Only the teeners and twenty-somethings have a chance of pulling a six-hour crawler session.

It started out a bit slow as the tide was lowering. Even though the swell was still strong, and would remain that way all day, YH is so tide sensitive, too much water will just swamp the place. Instead of steep take-offs into walled and makeable sections, you get swollen lumps of water moving ponderously towards shore without morphing into good waves. In addition to that, conditions were poor to fair, with a pesty southwest wind blowing the tops of the breaking waves into crumbly feta cheese look-a-likes. In my sorrowful state of self-pity I was cursing the wind. Am I ever going to get any good waves again in my whole entire life. Oh woe is me!

Then, about a half-hour into the session the wind turned, slightly at first, and then with more authority. A gentle northerly offshore began to blow, the clouds parted and the sun came out, it got glassy and the party was ON! From then until dusk waves came pouring through in all the various spots along the reef. I surfed three separate peaks along this section reef depending upon where the sets were looming up, and where I was after I kicked out from the previous ride.

Up-reef, Sarge's was going off, maybe the best it's been this season. It was bigger in wave size and crowd size. YH is not the best wave around and it is definitely a longboard/SUP wave. It can be slopey and soft, adamantly tide dependent, too small and closing out, or it can be a fun steep drop into a long wall with multiple makeable sections. Long rides are probable on the best waves, with section to section hook-ups that will yield 300 to 500 yard fun zone peelers. Climbing and dropping, long turn backs into steep troughs setting up into fast sections and plenty of turning, stalling and trimming are all on offer with the right swell and the right wave, and the right board (read SUP here).

Overall, the crowd came and went. For an hour I was at my spot in the line-up alone, with no real competition for any wave I wanted. In fact, there were only a few good surfers out, the rest falling into the beginner to average category. So many good waves were available elsewhere, that the better surfers were surfing the better (higher quality, bigger, more demanding) spots. Works for me!

Even the kelp infestation was no major hindrance or interference today. There was enough energy forming the incoming waves that the kelp would be submerged in the surge, leaving a clear take-off and wall to ride. Although it was sometimes best to let one or two waves roll through, ensuring the additional cushion of water over the rapacious kelp stalks.

And YH is a big board surf break. The bigger the better, and the SUP is perfect for it. To get the longest and best rides, you have to be able to make it through the flats, the holes in the reef where the wave just drops away, leaving only a part of the wave energy left to carry the surfer forward. Even longboard riders can have a hard time with this because they only have the inertia of their board to help them negotiate the decreased wave energy. Here's where the SUP "engine", the paddle, can be put to use to power through and into the next and meatier part of the wave. Over and over again, I could reclaim the wave, and add another hundred yards or more to my ride. While I think that SUPs definitely have surf spots where they shouldn't be, there are also spots that are meant to be SUP surfed.

After the session and in the growing darkness, as I was changing into my street clothes, Dave C. walked past, headed to his home (and hot tub) just down the street. He said, "2010's been pretty good so far." I'll hoist a pint to that!

January 10, 2010
In: 1130
Out: 1730
AT= 56.5-58F
WT= 55.2-55.6F
Wx: Partly cloudy all day.
Tide: 1.14' Falling to -0.27' Rising to 1.76'
Wind: Variable, southwesterly early to northwest to easterly late.
Sea Surface: Some adverse wind ripples early, then glassy
10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (first mark up from back) and RFC Speedwings
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 2-4 ft.

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Small Pounders At The Beach

Two small mixed WNW and W swells continued to ply the beaches. Surf was a bit smaller and of lesser quality than yesterday. Swell angle has changed somewhat, modified by the tide and decreased energy.

I got there early and was the first (and only) one out at the peak I chose to surf. From the view point, there was a nice right hander going off about every third or fourth set. It was real consistent with no channels or escape routes. Getting caught inside was more than likely. Oh well, that's the way it is.

A swift current was in effect and I spent a lot of time figuring out the line-up. I got a few good ones, and got pounded by a few too. Meanwhile upcoast, Ralph was getting some good rides at the spot we surfed yesterday. But, rogue sets were catching him and the others inside, and the waves were way less consistent and clean than yesterday. Overall, I chose to surf the empty, less quality (but not by much) peak, rather than the more consistent but crowded one upstream. A couple of the shortboarder wave hogs from yesterday's session returned about 9AM, but it was less crowded and the peak shifted around so much that everyone was having a little more trouble with the line-up. Therefore, no one was able to dominate the peak and pick off all the waves.

I had my fill after an hour plus with a few good rides under my belt and a fine cardio workout on the 6-10. I took pics after and it was definitely smaller and less consistent than yesterday. It's pretty hard not to have fun and be satisfied though...better to surf than not surf. The weather is good, with little wind from morning until dark. Most enjoyable, and a welcome change from the easterly to onshore wind by 9A or 10A every day Summer conditions. Got to dig it and get it while we can.

January 6, 2010
In: 0810
Out: 0925
AT= 45-48F
WT= 55F
Wx: Partly cloudy with high hazy cover.
Tide: 2.2' Rising to 3.0'
Wind: Calm to light easterly to calm.
Sea Surface: Light wind ripples
6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom
Fin set-up: Quad with Rainbow Speedwing sides and SB1 longboard rear fins.
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 2-3 ft.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Small Mixed Period Swells

The beaches regained some of their punch this morning as the swell increased a wee bit overnight. If only I had not lingered in the warmth of my cozy flannel covered down comforter, I would have scored a few more uncrowded peelers, but it was fun surfing in good waves none-the-less.

I rode the 6-10 since the surf wasn't so soft and was a little bigger. The volleyball pole peak was just going off when I arrived...only three guys on it so that was the call. A nice channel separated that desired peak from another down coast, so I was surprised when I got hammered by a big set blasting through it on my way out. No big...good exercise.

My first line-up was way too far upcoast and inside, so of course I got caught inside by an eight or so wave set that boomed in, as a result of the longer period WNW that was in the water. (Most of the ridable waves were due to the shorter period WNW which weren't closing out the channel.) The three guys out were good surfers, well versed in fast and furious beach break, and it didn't take long to attract the attention of others, who were looking for a spot to surf. It got crowded fairly quickly, as is the norm after 9 or 9:30AM. Soon there were nine rippers on the peak and barely enough waves to go around.

Fact is, a 62 year old guy on a (sorta) shortboard is not going to dominate in a crowd of young hotties. I got two really good waves in about 30 minutes, along with some short rides into close-outs, and I was happy with that. The vibe was hyper competitive among the younger surfers (mostly 20-somethings or early thirties) and probably fun to be around if you're 20-something. But at 60-something it's not as amusing. Let's just say that respecting the old guy, or even his turn when it came around, wasn't on their agenda.

But in the end they fed on each other. The sequence of the goofy footer getting snaked would be called "street justice" in law enforcement. The guy was a real Adam Henry, so what goes around, comes around.

Peace, out.

January 5, 2010
In: 0905
Out: 1015
AT= 46-52F
WT= 55F
Wx: Partly cloudy.
Tide: 2.2' Rising to 3.0'
Wind: Calm to light north/northeasterly.
Sea Surface: Light wind ripples
6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom
Fin set-up: Tri-fin with Rainbow Speedwing sides and Arakawa center.
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 2-4 ft.


Monday, January 4, 2010

Fading WNW the Reefs and Small Mixed at the Beaches

January 2, 2010
First surf of the year was in the remnants of a fast dying, but much bigger earlier, WNW ground swell. I woulda surfed first thing in the morning but Roy's memorial was at 11 and Leah wanted me to sing with her so that took priority.

I arrived at Sarge's at 3:15P to find a pulsating mass of people and no place, and I mean no place to park. WTF? Yeah it's a weekend but really? No place to park. So I double parked at the gate unloaded my SUP and paddle. Like I said, everyone was there so I ended up chit-chatting with four or five different people, checking the surf from the overlook and amazingly enough, while I was doing that a spot opened up right at the gate! Hallelujah! Who says there is no God?

While I was warming up Larry appeared at the top of the cliff and I yelled at him to join me at Yellow House. It was small, small, and smaller there, but the tide was dropping (a good thing) and there was only one other SUP surfer so I knew we'd have it to ourselves, more than likely we'd know the SUPer and for sure we'd get waves and have some fun.

It was more fun than I thought. Mo was out on his Mizuma custom SUP, and Larry and I were on our Angulo's. As the tide dropped the sets picked up and although it never got over waist high, the inside section was working and some speedy rides were had through that, accompanied by a fun take-off section.

We surfed until dark which is becoming later and later now that we've past the solstice. YES! Let's hear it for more daylight. The swell was definitely heading down, and by later this night, it would be all but gone.

January 2, 2010
In: 1515
Out: 1715
AT= 59-55F
WT= 55F
Wx: Partly cloudy. Beautiful!
Tide: 0.0' Falling to -1.3'
Wind: Calm to light and variable southerly, then northerly late.
Sea Surface: Mostly glassy
10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (first mark up from back) and RFC Speedwings
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 2-3 ft.

January 4, 2010
For the first time in a while, the beaches were small enough to ride. We've had so much wave energy these past few weeks that the beach breaks have just been macking. And conditions haven't been all that great either. Today however, the weather was just about as good as it gets, and the small surf was peeling nicely over numerous, newly formed sandbars.

I was hoping I could ride the 5-11 Ghostbuster and I got my wish. The surf was perfect for it. Since the reefs were too small to break in the small, mixed WNW/WSW swells, the crowd was on it early. (It's still Christmas vacation after all. And anyway, EVERYONE here surfs! No lie...everyone!) The tide was rising and a number of bars were working, all of them crowded (for the beaches). I started out wide on the most populated break, but after a couple waves moved down coast to an empty bar that wasn't all that great. None-the-less, I got my pick on any wave I wanted, and had some fun and fast rides on the GB.

When that started to slack off in the higher tide I paddled over to the main pack and took a couple, and then headed up coast for a few more. By then my wave count was through the roof and I was pretty tired. I took one in and called it a day.

Usually this spot has waves with a lot of pop and push, but today it was almost mushy. The waves were beautifully shaped but lacking a certain amount of the normal sizzle. Kinda strange but not bad. It was super consistent and the crowd factor wasn't all that inhibiting, 'cause everyone was getting lots of rides. Even though the incoming waves weren't their usual energetic selves, the side shore current was very active. No such thing as sitting still unless you want to move down coast and down current in a hurry.

January 4, 2010
In: 0915
Out: 1130
AT= 48-60F
WT= 55F
Wx: Sunny and clear
Tide: 3.4' Rising to 5.0'
Wind: Calm to light southerly
Sea Surface: Light wind ripples
5-11 Freeline Ghost Buster 2 Mini-Simmons
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 2-4 ft.