Sunday, June 24, 2007
Rick Griffin's work is a foundational part of surfing, not only in the USA but in the world we know, and the world we cannot always clearly comprehend. A true artist-visionary, his art defines to a large degree, surfing in the 60's and 70's. Starting today through September the Laguna Art Museum is featuring Griffin's work. It could even be worth a surfin' safari to SoCal to take in, and marvel at the artist's great work. If it is in your power, this show is not to be missed. For more exhibit information click here.
While waiting for the surf to show up I decided to start my running program again. So I did by promptly overdoing it and pulling a hamstring. At least it was a mild pull and won't keep me sidelined for too long. But still...when will I ever learn? 16 year old brain, 60 year old body...repeat that one hundred times.
On the upside for me though, the surf is still pretty flat. Maybe some south but not until the end of June or first of July. Who knows? But this summer is still spectacular weather. People still surfing and enjoying the beach. Life is good eh?
Friday, June 22, 2007
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Conditions have calmed slowly but surely over the past few days. Glad I got a good session in before this current summer doldrum took hold. The images are frame grabs from the NWS and Storm Surf. They tell the tale pretty clearly. So I've been reduced to checking the local spots, dreaming about the surf trips I could take and getting waves vicariously through the blogs, two of which Daily Bread and JDUBSINGLES, are always a pleasure to view.
Not to worry though, this down time will allow for some fun cross training...running and carveboarding, an essential piece in anyone's quiver.
Monday, June 18, 2007
Surfed the six-foot quad fish and the 9'10" Harbour 19 noserider this morning. Funny how I couldn't get off the noserider last year, and this year you've got to pry the quad fish out of my grasping fingers.
Wave size dropped a bit, but bigger on the somewhat inconsistent sets. Quality suffered a bit today too from yesterday, but there were still plenty of waves to be had. Between the two boards I bagged over 30 waves. (It's not how long you're out, it's how many waves you get.) Crowds were minimal (one of the factors allowing for the high wave count). I surfed Roots by myself until I went for the big board. Then surfed Eights for an hour and a half with only eight others. Primo!
Forecasters are calling for the waves to decrease as the week progresses.
Sunday, June 17, 2007
Had a chance to get wet early and briefly before church. The north-south gradient kicked up again and the buoy numbers looked pretty good. Got a few good ones at Roots before time constraints put me on the beach. The marine layer is back in full effect. The image on the right is Saturday's version of nature's mega marine layer...the natural outcome of cold water, moist air and a warm inversion.
Friday, June 15, 2007
Temps across the region cooled by almost 20 degrees as the north-south pressure gradient wind swell diminished but was joined by a westerly wind swell. This made for some interesting wave configurations and directions as wind waves converged on one another and the T8 sand bars. It was everything from fast, hard breaking sections with long rides into the shore pound, to crumbly set wave closeouts.
I was first out (surprised again) early and at low tide. The light wind from the east made for some wind chop but not badly interfering with take-offs. After an hour or so wave size decreased and so did the wind. One thing though, with two competing wind swells there were plenty of waves. Consistency was no problem as my wave count shows.
Once again had a blast on the quad fish while not very humbly smirking to myself as the other fossils (and I'm one of 'em) paddled out on their logs. Life is good. And surfing is one of the reasons this is so.
Thursday, June 14, 2007
SoCal comes to NorCal. We get about four or five days like this a year and the last two days have been unseasonably hot! I've never even seen the NWS use their "Hot" graphic on the Forecast at a Glance for the Bay. Probably because I'm a SoCal transplant (35 years ago) I like these days...reminds me of many days spent at Zuma, Secos and County Line surfing with good friends. That doesn't last long though...especially when one paddles out in 52 degree water. The guy riding his longboard bareback didn't last long either.
Grabbed a few quick ones this morning at T8. Wave size has dropped a bit and the best waves were not the small and not the set waves but the medium sized ones. Out at 0755 and surprised to be the first one out. Only one other youngster paddled out before I had to paddle in.
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
Superb late Spring weather has enveloped the Bay. In addition to chilly early morning temps giving way to clear, sunny and warm skys, the high pressure gradient caused wind swell has cleaned up and is delivering consistent head high to over head waves. What the Point lacked in population control it made up for in a plethora of long ride waves delivered at rapid intervals. Frenchy talked me into riding the Shlong, for which I'll have to give him thanks. At 7'6" it's my current "longboard" and is a wave catching machine...for that I'll give John Mel the thanks.
Monday, June 11, 2007
The Arcata-SF pressure gradient measured 6MB (millibars) this morning creating gale force winds north of SF and sizable wind swell. Got a few this morning at T8 although the swell is disorganized with double-ups flattening out and set waves breaking impossibly too far out to catch. Needed a longer board but am having too much fun on the quad fish to give it up, even for a session. Got a good pic of Zacky going left.
Saturday, June 9, 2007
Just a touch of side shore wind this morning in fun, waist high wind swell. Not too crowded for a Saturday morning and a nice vibe in the water. Marine layer moving towards a normal summer pattern of overcast clearing at mid-morning. Just good to be out there.
Friday, June 8, 2007
Waited too late to get going and wanted to get wet. Wind swell making chest high grinders. One good vertical slap off the lip...a couple crazy takeoffs...a couple servings of humble pie. Kept thinking about the March issue of Surfer Mag, page 182 titled "Blown Opportunities - Could Onshore Winds Really Be Worth Waiting For? Surfed alone...miles of beach and ocean empty except for a few. Diggin' it.
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
"BEAUTIFUL MORNING WITH LITTLE TO NO STRATUS
ACROSS THE DISTRICT...THANKS TO A COLD
TROUGH WHICH HAS WIPED OUT THE MARINE
LAYER. WITH LOW HEIGHTS AND COLD AIR
ALOFT TODAYS TEMPS WILL BE
WELL BELOW NORMAL...AS MUCH AS 10 TO 15 DEGREES."
Thanks to the National Weather Service (NWS) for that.
Wind came up early making for white caps and
bumpy conditions at the beaches.
Town still has some small but fun looking longboard waves.
Monday, June 4, 2007
The west windswell filled in as the south began to fade out. This made for some excellent and consistent shoulder high combers that were made for the enjoyment of loggers. And enjoy them they did. I chose to ride the Freeline quad fish at Roots as the tide was right and there was an abundance of pitching lips and zips that made for challenging if not short rides into the beach with a short paddle back out. This series of swells began late last week and has provided generously to all practitioners. The abundance of waves and the improving weather are more than just compensation for the previous gloominess. You go girl!
Sunday, June 3, 2007
When: June 3, 2007, 08:00 AM - 10:30 AM Sunday
Always wanted to learn to surf but never knew where to start? Then try your hand in this great beginner surfing class. Lessons are held at Linda Mar Beach, a mile long stretch in Pacifica that offers a perfect setting for beginners. Classes will focus on ocean safety, surfing fundamentals, and surfing etiquette. The small group instruction, style helps to create a fun atmosphere for learning this great sport. Classes are approximately 2.5 hours long, and begin 8:00 am. Price includes surfboard, wetsuit, and instruction. Cost: $69/79/89Contact E-Mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
Info URL: http://www.outdoors.ucsf.edu
Category: Sports/Recreation, Class
Submitted: May 17, 2007, 09:13 AM
Submitted by: Millberry Fitness and Recreation Center
Photo courtesy of Surfline.com
South backed off on Friday then filled in nicely on Saturday and Sunday. Me out with a back injury from ten days ago. Shoulda listened to my wife and rested from the start. Instead I treated it too aggressively because I didn't want to miss any waves. Now I'm missing what looks like the last of any real swell for a while. I'll have to be happy with wind swell and hey, that's not so bad.
Of course the Shralpfest went off in fine fashion. Best ever they say...for more about Shralpfest and The Core click here.