Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Friday, June 15, 2007

Cooler Temps & Cross Wind Swells



Temps across the region cooled by almost 20 degrees as the north-south pressure gradient wind swell diminished but was joined by a westerly wind swell. This made for some interesting wave configurations and directions as wind waves converged on one another and the T8 sand bars. It was everything from fast, hard breaking sections with long rides into the shore pound, to crumbly set wave closeouts.

I was first out (surprised again) early and at low tide. The light wind from the east made for some wind chop but not badly interfering with take-offs. After an hour or so wave size decreased and so did the wind. One thing though, with two competing wind swells there were plenty of waves. Consistency was no problem as my wave count shows.

Once again had a blast on the quad fish while not very humbly smirking to myself as the other fossils (and I'm one of 'em) paddled out on their logs. Life is good. And surfing is one of the reasons this is so.



June 15, 2007 (F)

In: 0820

1st Wave: 0823

Out: 0953

Wave count: 16

WT=52.2

AT=56

Wx: Clear cloudless sunny skies, cooler

Tide: Incoming (.33' to 2.24')

Wind: Light to calm

Sea Surface: Smooth with some wind chop

Buoy: NWS

0800: 8.9 @ 9.1 NW

0900: 8.5 @ 10 NW

1000: 7.9 @ 9.1 NW

Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R)

T8: Beach break

Waves: 4' @ 10 Storm Surf Buoy Model

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