June 25 - 29, 2007

Stairway to fun.

Surf small? No Juice? No worries...claim it anyway!

Hello marine layer.

Surfin' 2007....learning made easy from your favorite surf school kahuna.

Student...meet your kahuna

Awww MOM!

Rick Griffin in Laguna

Rick Griffin's work is a foundational part of surfing, not only in the USA but in the world we know, and the world we cannot always clearly comprehend. A true artist-visionary, his art defines to a large degree, surfing in the 60's and 70's. Starting today through September the Laguna Art Museum is featuring Griffin's work. It could even be worth a surfin' safari to SoCal to take in, and marvel at the artist's great work. If it is in your power, this show is not to be missed. For more exhibit information click here.

Cross Training Blues

While waiting for the surf to show up I decided to start my running program again. So I did by promptly overdoing it and pulling a hamstring. At least it was a mild pull and won't keep me sidelined for too long. But still...when will I ever learn? 16 year old brain, 60 year old body...repeat that one hundred times.

On the upside for me though, the surf is still pretty flat. Maybe some south but not until the end of June or first of July. Who knows? But this summer is still spectacular weather. People still surfing and enjoying the beach. Life is good eh?

Wave Doodles and Kids

So what is there to do when the waves go pretty much unridable? Take pics of the beauty of their frozen images like sculpture and enjoy the kids and grownups having a joyous day at the beach under warm sunny skies. A jewel of a day!

No Wind, No Waves

Conditions have calmed slowly but surely over the past few days. Glad I got a good session in before this current summer doldrum took hold. The images are frame grabs from the NWS and Storm Surf. They tell the tale pretty clearly. So I've been reduced to checking the local spots, dreaming about the surf trips I could take and getting waves vicariously through the blogs, two of which Daily Bread and JDUBSINGLES, are always a pleasure to view.

Not to worry though, this down time will allow for some fun cross training...running and carveboarding, an essential piece in anyone's quiver.

Two Board Session

Surfed the six-foot quad fish and the 9'10" Harbour 19 noserider this morning. Funny how I couldn't get off the noserider last year, and this year you've got to pry the quad fish out of my grasping fingers.

Wave size dropped a bit, but bigger on the somewhat inconsistent sets. Quality suffered a bit today too from yesterday, but there were still plenty of waves to be had. Between the two boards I bagged over 30 waves. (It's not how long you're out, it's how many waves you get.) Crowds were minimal (one of the factors allowing for the high wave count). I surfed Roots by myself until I went for the big board. Then surfed Eights for an hour and a half with only eight others. Primo!

Forecasters are calling for the waves to decrease as the week progresses.

June 18, 2007 (M) In: 0804 1st Wave: 0811 Out: 1040 Wave count: 30+ WT=54 AT=53 Wx: Marine layer high overcast Tide: Incoming (-1.01' to .62') Wind: Light from the southeast Sea Surface: Light texture Buoy: NWS 0900: 8.9 @ 10.8 NW 1000: 8.2 @ 10 NW 1100: 8.5 @ 10 NW Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) Harbour Nineteen (9'10") Standard 10" Harbour Fin Roots and Eights: Rock reef and sand Waves: 4.5' @ 11 Storm Surf Buoy Model

Early Morning Father's Day Surf

Had a chance to get wet early and briefly before church. The north-south gradient kicked up again and the buoy numbers looked pretty good. Got a few good ones at Roots before time constraints put me on the beach. The marine layer is back in full effect. The image on the right is Saturday's version of nature's mega marine layer...the natural outcome of cold water, moist air and a warm inversion.

June 17, 2007 (Su) In: 0740 1st Wave: 0750 Out: 0820 Wave count: 7 WT=53.4 AT=52 Wx: Marine layer high overcast Tide: Incoming (-1.43' to -1.04') Wind: Light from the southeast Sea Surface: Very light texture, smoothed by the kelp beds Buoy: NWS 0700: 10.8 @ 10.8 NW 0800: 8.9 @ 10 NW 0900: 9.5 @ 10.8 NW Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) Roots: Rock reef and sand Waves: 6.5' @ 11.1 Storm Surf Buoy Model

Cooler Temps & Cross Wind Swells

Temps across the region cooled by almost 20 degrees as the north-south pressure gradient wind swell diminished but was joined by a westerly wind swell. This made for some interesting wave configurations and directions as wind waves converged on one another and the T8 sand bars. It was everything from fast, hard breaking sections with long rides into the shore pound, to crumbly set wave closeouts.

I was first out (surprised again) early and at low tide. The light wind from the east made for some wind chop but not badly interfering with take-offs. After an hour or so wave size decreased and so did the wind. One thing though, with two competing wind swells there were plenty of waves. Consistency was no problem as my wave count shows.

Once again had a blast on the quad fish while not very humbly smirking to myself as the other fossils (and I'm one of 'em) paddled out on their logs. Life is good. And surfing is one of the reasons this is so.

June 15, 2007 (F) In: 0820 1st Wave: 0823 Out: 0953 Wave count: 16 WT=52.2 AT=56 Wx: Clear cloudless sunny skies, cooler Tide: Incoming (.33' to 2.24') Wind: Light to calm Sea Surface: Smooth with some wind chop Buoy: NWS 0800: 8.9 @ 9.1 NW 0900: 8.5 @ 10 NW 1000: 7.9 @ 9.1 NW Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) T8: Beach break Waves: 4' @ 10 Storm Surf Buoy Model

Sweeet and Hot!

SoCal comes to NorCal. We get about four or five days like this a year and the last two days have been unseasonably hot! I've never even seen the NWS use their "Hot" graphic on the Forecast at a Glance for the Bay. Probably because I'm a SoCal transplant (35 years ago) I like these days...reminds me of many days spent at Zuma, Secos and County Line surfing with good friends. That doesn't last long though...especially when one paddles out in 52 degree water. The guy riding his longboard bareback didn't last long either.

Grabbed a few quick ones this morning at T8. Wave size has dropped a bit and the best waves were not the small and not the set waves but the medium sized ones. Out at 0755 and surprised to be the first one out. Only one other youngster paddled out before I had to paddle in.

June 14, 2007 (Th) In: 0755 1st Wave: 0801 Out: 0841 Wave count: 11 WT=52.5 AT=59 Wx: Clear, cloudless skies...warm at 0700 hours Tide: Incoming (.8' to 1.76') Wind: Calm to light Sea Surface: Smooth with some light bump Buoy: NWS 0800: 7.5 @ 10.8 NW 0900: 6.9 @ 9.1 NW 1000: 6.6 @ 10 NW Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) T8: Beachbreak Waves: 4' @ 10 Storm Surf Buoy Model

Yeah! Summer Previews

Superb late Spring weather has enveloped the Bay. In addition to chilly early morning temps giving way to clear, sunny and warm skys, the high pressure gradient caused wind swell has cleaned up and is delivering consistent head high to over head waves. What the Point lacked in population control it made up for in a plethora of long ride waves delivered at rapid intervals. Frenchy talked me into riding the Shlong, for which I'll have to give him thanks. At 7'6" it's my current "longboard" and is a wave catching machine...for that I'll give John Mel the thanks.

June 12, 2007 (Tu) In: 0833 1st Wave: 0843 Out: 0957 Wave count: 13 WT=52.3 AT=60 Wx: Clear, sunny and warm Tide: Incoming (3.25' to 3.6') Wind: Calm to light Sea Surface: Smooth with some light bump Buoy: NWS 0800: 10.2 @ 10.8 NW 1000: 9.8 @ 12.9 NW 1100: 10.8 @ 10 NW 7'6" Shlong Tri Fin Point: Rock reef and sand Waves: 7' @ 12.5 Storm Surf Buoy Model

Warming Trend with Wind Swell

The Arcata-SF pressure gradient measured 6MB (millibars) this morning creating gale force winds north of SF and sizable wind swell. Got a few this morning at T8 although the swell is disorganized with double-ups flattening out and set waves breaking impossibly too far out to catch. Needed a longer board but am having too much fun on the quad fish to give it up, even for a session. Got a good pic of Zacky going left.

June 11, 2007 (M) In: 0810 1st Wave: 0821 Out: 0937 Wave count: 9 WT=53.6 AT=59 Wx: Overcast, clearing to a cloudless sky Tide: Outgoing (3.4' to 3.2') Wind: Light from the east, calming Sea Surface: Light texture Buoy: NWS 0800: 9.8 @ 10.8 NW 1000: 10.8 @ 10.8 NW 1100: 11.2 @ 10.8 NW Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) T8: Beachbreak Waves: 6.5' @ 11.1 Storm Surf Buoy Model

This Morning at T8

Just a touch of side shore wind this morning in fun, waist high wind swell. Not too crowded for a Saturday morning and a nice vibe in the water. Marine layer moving towards a normal summer pattern of overcast clearing at mid-morning. Just good to be out there.

June 9, 2007 (Sa) In: 0848 1st Wave: 0853 Out: 0943 Wave count: 11 WT=55 AT=58 Wx: Overcast to clearing with hazy sun Tide: Outgoing (2.13' to 1.46') Wind: Light from the east Sea Surface: Light to mild texture Buoy: NWS 0800: 4.3 @ 8.3 WNW 0900: 3.6 @ 8.3 NW 1200: 4.9 @ 8.3 NW Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) T8: Beachbreak Waves: 2.2' @ 12.7 Storm Surf Buoy Model

Noon Session in the Wind Chop

Waited too late to get going and wanted to get wet. Wind swell making chest high grinders. One good vertical slap off the lip...a couple crazy takeoffs...a couple servings of humble pie. Kept thinking about the March issue of Surfer Mag, page 182 titled "Blown Opportunities - Could Onshore Winds Really Be Worth Waiting For? Surfed alone...miles of beach and ocean empty except for a few. Diggin' it.

June 8, 2007 (F) In: 1218 1st Wave: 1220 Out: 1300 Wave count: 10 WT=55 AT=60 Wx: Sunny with some clouds Tide: Incoming (0.6' to 1.3') Wind: Moderate to victory@c Sea Surface: Choppy to white caps in the lineup Buoy: NWS 1100: 5.9 @ 7.7 NW 1200: 4.6 @ 8.3 NW 1300: 4.6 @ 7.7 NW Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) T10: Beachbreak Waves: 2' @ 8 Storm Surf Buoy Model

June 5 (Tu) and 6 (W), 2007

"BEAUTIFUL MORNING WITH LITTLE TO NO STRATUS
ACROSS THE DISTRICT...THANKS TO A COLD
TROUGH WHICH HAS WIPED OUT THE MARINE
LAYER. WITH LOW HEIGHTS AND COLD AIR
ALOFT TODAYS TEMPS WILL BE
WELL BELOW NORMAL...AS MUCH AS 10 TO 15 DEGREES."
Thanks to the National Weather Service (NWS) for that.

Wind came up early making for white caps and
bumpy conditions at the beaches.
Town still has some small but fun looking longboard waves.

Longboard Heaven

The west windswell filled in as the south began to fade out. This made for some excellent and consistent shoulder high combers that were made for the enjoyment of loggers. And enjoy them they did. I chose to ride the Freeline quad fish at Roots as the tide was right and there was an abundance of pitching lips and zips that made for challenging if not short rides into the beach with a short paddle back out. This series of swells began late last week and has provided generously to all practitioners. The abundance of waves and the improving weather are more than just compensation for the previous gloominess. You go girl!

June 4, 2007 (M) In: 0921 1st Wave: 0925 Out: 1130 Wave count: 27 WT=56.5 AT=58 Wx: Fog clearing to high sunny haze Tide: Incoming (-0.25' to 1.8') Wind: None to very light Sea Surface: Glassy to light texture Buoy: NWS 1000: 4.6 @ 12.9 W 1100: 4.9 @ 12.9 W 1200: 4.9 @ 13.8 W Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) Roots: Rock reef acts like beachbreak Waves: 4.5' @ 13.8 Storm Surf Buoy Model

Let's Go Surfin' Now Everybody's Learning How...

Campus Calendar

Surfing

Location: Other

When: June 3, 2007, 08:00 AM - 10:30 AM Sunday

Always wanted to learn to surf but never knew where to start? Then try your hand in this great beginner surfing class. Lessons are held at Linda Mar Beach, a mile long stretch in Pacifica that offers a perfect setting for beginners. Classes will focus on ocean safety, surfing fundamentals, and surfing etiquette. The small group instruction, style helps to create a fun atmosphere for learning this great sport. Classes are approximately 2.5 hours long, and begin 8:00 am. Price includes surfboard, wetsuit, and instruction. Cost: $69/79/89

Contact E-Mail: outdoors@cls.ucsf.edu
Info URL: http://www.outdoors.ucsf.edu
Category: Sports/Recreation, Class
Audience: All
Submitted: May 17, 2007, 09:13 AM
Submitted by: Millberry Fitness and Recreation Center

Photo courtesy of Surfline.com

May 31 (Th) June 1-2-3 (F-Sa-Su)

South backed off on Friday then filled in nicely on Saturday and Sunday. Me out with a back injury from ten days ago. Shoulda listened to my wife and rested from the start. Instead I treated it too aggressively because I didn't want to miss any waves. Now I'm missing what looks like the last of any real swell for a while. I'll have to be happy with wind swell and hey, that's not so bad.

Of course the Shralpfest went off in fine fashion. Best ever they say...for more about Shralpfest and The Core click here.