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G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Sunday, August 1, 2010

New South Swell

Sunday August 1, 2010 - Mayans Redux

Andy and I hooked up for another dawn patrol paddle to Mayans. The south swell had increased a bit, and the northerly wind swell dropped a little. All in all, it was better yesterday. The tide was a little higher too, which only enhanced the backwash and side roll off the high sandstone cliffs.

Yesterday's peak put up a better left, but it was short and mushy. The right peak walled up and was unmakeable with a very few exceptions. Yesterday was more consistent and longer rides. We soon abandoned Saturday's peak for another one further north. We didn't fare much better there though. The rights were a little more consistent but had an irritating habit of doubling up half way up the wave. When you rode over that you'd be in a walled up and closing trough that exploded all around you. No exit. Still, there were enough makeable waves to have fun, but only a shadow of yesterday's surf.

One longboarder and two shorts paddled up from somewhere. The longboarder earlier than the shorts. He rode the mushy left we'd previously relinquished. We were done by the time the shortboarders hit the area.

The nearly two-mile round trip paddle is a pleasant stroll, with plenty to look at on land and on and under the sea. Big boils punctuate the path to and through the surfing grounds, giving away the hiding spots of the peaks and ledges that stand up during larger ground swells. Birds, otters and sea lions are well represented. Today sea surface was glassy and smooth with only a few rolling waves passing through by the time we hit the beach for the take-out. Basically we're thinking for the future, low tide and wind swell. Mayans didn't seem to like the long period WSW swell all that much.

On the way back home I passed by Henry's and the popular spots on the eastside. Packed to the gills. Everybody's gone surfing, surfing USA - The Beach Boys


Monday August 2, 2010 - Tres-Ates

After a couple fun days on the 10-0 Angulo it felt great to get back on the SIMSUP and lean into the differences. What a super fun board is this L41 Kirk shaped mini-Simmons design inspired and based stand up paddle-surfboard.

I was hoping the swell would show better, so I took a small gamble by passing over Scimi's and GDubs, heading to TresAtes straight away without even looking at it. Actually, I almost did take a look at it but I got side tracked by Kirk who was checking Scimi's in the dimly lit, early morning murk and overcast. He was up for surfing his shortie twin although he was having minor second thoughts about surfing his short
SUP instead.

I grabbed the Simmy, did a quick warm-up and was in the line-up at Tres by 0610. There was definitely a south swell in the water. Sets were earmarked with fairly long waits, but there were enough small waves, horseshoeing over the inside reef, to make for plenty of diversion and surprisingly long rides in the fast and sectiony runners in between sets. Occasionally I'd get caught inside, but the paddle back was in front of Brown House or Tres Palmas and it was breaking soft and mellow there.

I'm thinking that the Angulo 10-0 is a great all-around SUP. It's the board I want when I need to paddle any kind of distance to get to the surf, or just to take a little excursion, or a paddle on a flat, surfless day in the sun. But the 8-0 SIMSUP is definitely my board of choice when I want
performance and maneuverability. Climbing and dropping, finding the right line in a hurry, hard turn backs just laying it on rail, stability with fast down the line speed and trim...the SIMSUP is the desired package.

Temps were cool, and this typical overcast morning Summer drizzle marine layer pattern is looking like the new norm. If there is a silver lining, it's that the water is pretty warm. 58 degrees at 0545. I surfed until I was tired and getting sloppy from fatigue. I got some halfway decent shots with the Olympus in spite of the horrible low light conditions for taking pictures. I was hoping to do better but every time I was in the right position to get some decent snaps of surfers on the main peak, I was dead center in the down reef peak which was bearing down quick on my position. More than once I got semi-creamed, but the peak was soft and not
pitching so the drubbing was minimal. Finally I just said, screw the pictures, I can't surf and take pics from this vantage point.

Herby was out on his red stripped Surftech, goofy footing his way through the lefts and an occasional right. It's always fun to surf with Herby. He's positive, fun-loving, upbeat all the time and (too) social. His right-foot-forward style has led him to be just a little Goofy in more than one way, and in the very best sense. And he finally got new wetsuit! His old one was literally falling apart on his body, leaving oxidized rubber and glue marks on his neck. Yuck! Isn't that carcinogenic or at the very least rubber stink-o-genic?

Lookin' for a redux tomorrow if the buoy numbers hold. If not, then down to the beaches on Eric's longboard, or...maybe I'll just sleep in.

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