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G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Monday, February 27, 2012

February Sessions and Videos

Wednesday and Thursday February 8 and 9, 2012 - Very consistent westerly mid-period swell rolls in. Hallmark of these two days is how incredibly crowded it was, I've never surfed with more people in the afternoon at one of my favorite spots. Surfed two sessions on Wednesday when it was biggest, then a single afternoon session on Thursday after the swell had dropped about half it's size. Paddled out from the wharf in the morning on Wednesday and into an ocean full of heavy water and motion. Headed for Sarges and GDubs right off the bat. There really was no line-up, just a lot of big mountainous water moving through the usual take-off spots that were now all over the place. The best I could do was to try and find a surfable peak somewhere by paddling from place to place and hoping a peak would roll through where I was. Mostly the seas were moving too fast to realistically try and chase the peaks down. No one was having their way with the ocean this morning. The afternoon session was much better. The sea had settled quite a bit and it was very, very consistent. I surfed for almost four hours at Yellow House and rode waves until dark and near exhaustion. Thursday was a solo afternoon session, much the same re consistency with about half the size. Again, many rides taken in the two hour session. (Time: 5:34 ) and (Time: 2:05)




Tuesday February 14, 2012 - NW/WNW apres storm swell. Lots of wind in the outer waters put a little extra wind swell on top of this mid-period and relatively steep angled WNW/NW swell. Stormsurf forecast it peaking in the afternoon but at 5AM it was 15 at 15 and I figured there would be a good chance of seeing some fun waist/shoulder high waves in hopefully uncrowded conditions. It was all that for sure. I paddled out at 0715 and headed straight to GDubs. It wasn't perfect but it was very, very good with plentiful sets and a good selection of quality waves coming through. Best of all, no crowd. A group of five shortboarders eventually took up a position wide of the main break. That left the main peak open and there were never more than three on it at any one time. Of the three I was the only one who could surf well so the playing field was wide open. Tide at paddle out was a little less than 3 ft. and dropping. Conditions were nearly perfect with light offshores to dead calm and glassy. I finished up at Casa Roja after the tide got a little too low at G's. Wave sizes backed off in the lower tide. But all this was half as good as Scimi's which was about as good as it gets for these size waves. It wasn't crowded there either, never more than 12 in the water at any one time. But I was more than happy with my session. No complaints. (Time: 1:31)


Friday February 17, 2012 - Last chance to get a few waves before a holiday weekend and a small long period WNW swell had me paddling out to GW's in the mid-afternoon. Ron was out on his longboard getting his fair share in the inconsistent but fairly well populated sets. Waves were in the waist/chest range. After a while Austin and Joanna paddled out and we all shared waves and plenty of conversation during the long lulls. I had a chance to use my new Kodak Playsport Zx5 which will be backup to the GoPro Hero 2. Long story short...sprained my knee when I got pounded by a close-out. Instead of getting pushed off by the wave, my bootied lead foot stuck to the wax surface and bent my knee sideways. Hurt bad and I thought I couldn't even walk but it cleared up quickly and I was able to finish my session without much pain. Swelled up after the sesh though, so I'm on injured reserve for a while. No major damage hopefully as I seem to be getting better quickly. (Time: 2:03)

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