Monday October 1, 2012 - The steep angled NPAC swell picked up nicely on Saturday and by Sunday it was booming. And so were the crowds. The weather turned drop dead perfect with hot temperatures and light winds. All this combined for fantastic surfing in exquisite conditions (not counting the surfing hoards that descended upon all the breaks).
I usually don't surf the weekends. There's just no fun in it for me when I'm constantly worried about taking off in front of someone, someone taking off in front of me, hitting someone floating in the water and being hit by someone who is either in control or out of control. Lot's of others don't feel this way. Sometimes folks can only surf on the weekends. So be it. No animosity, no hard feelings, it's just the way it is. The Beach Boys prophesied in the late 60's that "everybody's gone surfing", and they have.
Crowds are a fact of life but they are a little less prevalent on weekdays when many are back to work and unable to paddle out, and when school is back in session, limiting the time the students can surf. This is when I usually make my appearance, even when the waves aren't as good....as was the case today.
There was still enough swell in the water to put 3-6 ft. peelers in the water and it was not inconsistent although it wasn't what I would call consistent either. I didn't get out as early on the dawn patrol as I had initially planned, so probably missed a few waves. But I did manage to hook into some fast, steep long lines before the tide fattened it up, and the dropping swell became even more inconsistent.
But the breathtaking beauty of todays sunrise from the water was really what I was after. September has been so fog bound, chilly and gloomy, it's been like living inside a refrigerator. This burst of ebullient Fall warmth in the life enhancing sun light was what I craved. And I got it. The waves were the icing on the cake. Not really necessary, but delicious just the same.
thanks for the video
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