Happy Fourth of July?

No doubt there are a lot of people having a very happy and mellow (and for some, lubricated) holiday. For others, not so fortunate, not so blessed.

More than one wise person has told us that our nation, mightiest in the history of the world, will never fall from without, we will be taken down from within, by our own doing, our own neglectful compliance with ignorance and inattention. Never has our nation been more susceptible to falling than it is now.

Our society's most powerful and trusted political leaders have betrayed us time and again. Iraq, Plamegate, the Patriot Act, revocation of habeas corpus, politicizing the Department of Justice and the Constitution of the United States of America. Who stands up for what is right, for democracy for the freedom to protest vs. who stands with the money?

My heart today is with all Americans and especially with those serving overseas. My hope is that a change is coming, a change that will restore the democracy that has made this nation the envy of the world.

South Swells Fades - Day 3

There was definitely no room at the inn this morning. Lot full. I squeezed in between a GMC dually and a Subaru Forester. It's so hot in the valleys that the great Pacific fog machine kicked in and we are experiencing typical summer weather. Foggy mornings burning off to sunny afternoons. Couldn't see the waves from the lookout.

Swell has dropped both in quality and quantity. Some good ones coming through but the waits in between sets was looooong. Rode the 7'6" as I knew there would be competition from the masses (one of whom is me). Tried to outwit the crowd by paddling out early. Wrong! It was as crowded as I've ever seen it an hour past sunrise. Struck up a conversation with a youngster. I said, "I can't believe I went surfing on the 4th of July! I feel like I should get a medal." He thought that was funny. It's nice when the young ones humor we fossils. Ironically an hour after I paddled out the crowd thinned by half, right when the incoming tide was giving the waves some extra size. Go figure. Surf the waves not the crowd.

July 4, 2007 (W) In: 0658 1st Wave: 0703 Out: 0921 Wave count: 18 WT=56 AT=56 Wx: Moderately heavy fog to clearing Tide: Incoming (-.4' to .75') Wind: Light from the southeast to calm Sea Surface: Mostly glassy with some light texture Buoy: NWS 0800: 3.3 @ 16 S 0900: 3.3 @ 16 S 1000: No data 1100: 4.3 @ 16 S Freeline 7'6" Shlong (rounded pin) Populars: Rock reef Waves: 3.8' @ 15.8 Storm Surf Buoy Model

South Fills In - Day 2

The long forecasted south arrived Sunday evening and began filling in Monday and into today. Not a great swell but what with the hot weather was "warmly greeted" (pun intended) by all. I was going to split the session starting out with the 6' Quad and then switching over to the 7'6" Shlong for the fatter but longer lines at Eights. But I ended up having so much fun on the Quad I surfed it for two and half hours. Roots was pretty much empty so there wasn't much competition. Since this swell was birthed from so many thousands of mile away there were understandable waits in between sets. Most sets were chest high with the standouts going overhead and numbering multiples of quality waves. As usual the locals were shredding making it fun to surf and fun to shoot. Crowds weren't as bad as anticipated. We might get one more day of the good stuff before things taper off into flatness next week. Get it while you can!

July 3, 2007 (Tu) In: 0758 1st Wave: 0802 Out: 1026 Wave count: 18 WT=56 AT=62 Wx: Clear, sunny warm to fog to clearing again Tide: Incoming (-.85' to 1.35') Wind: Light from the southeast to calm Sea Surface: Glassy with some light texture Buoy: NWS 0800: 3.3 @ 17.4 SSW 0900: 3.3 @ 17.4 SSW 1000: 3.3 @ 16 S 1200: 3.9 @ 16 SW Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R) Roots: Rock reef and sand Waves: 4.2' @ 16 Storm Surf Buoy Model

Welcome South Swell

The south swell that has been forecast for the last week finally arrived last night around 9PM. Waves in town were waist to chest high with inconsistent sets. As usual the beaches don't take a weak south very well so things were less exciting there. Again the weather has been extraordinary. I've been here over thirty years and I don't remember this many sunny clear mornings ever. Since the waves aren't that good I'm giving myself one more day of hamstring rehab. Will crack it tomorrow as the 4th of July crowds are filling in faster than the new swell.
The Bay was clear and beautiful this morning. No marine layer, little sea mist and the wind was nil.
A solitary surfer awaits the next set...low tide sand bars, nature's revelation.
Wispy high clouds portend the day's hot weather. All anticipate the coming glory of peacefulness and goodness.