There was definitely no room at the inn this morning. Lot full. I squeezed in between a GMC dually and a Subaru Forester. It's so hot in the valleys that the great Pacific fog machine kicked in and we are experiencing typical summer weather. Foggy mornings burning off to sunny afternoons. Couldn't see the waves from the lookout.Swell has dropped both in quality and quantity. Some good ones coming through but the waits in between sets was looooong. Rode the 7'6" as I knew there would be competition from the masses (one of whom is me). Tried to outwit the crowd by paddling out early. Wrong! It was as crowded as I've ever seen it an hour past sunrise. Struck up a conversation with a youngster. I said, "I can't believe I went surfing on the 4th of July! I feel like I should get a medal." He thought that was funny. It's nice when the young ones humor we fossils. Ironically an hour after I paddled out the crowd thinned by half, right when the incoming tide was giving the waves some extra size. Go figure. Surf the waves not the crowd.
|
No comments:
Post a Comment