Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Monday, July 30, 2007

Wind Swell Beach Break

With the current weather pattern firmly in place a steady drumbeat of downslope, onshore winds are creating chest high waves at the local beaches. It's somewhat dismal arriving at the beach to experience the same shade grayness, the onshore winds and the less than epic looking waves. But these consistently shifting sand bar sculpted beauties are better than no waves, and I've got no complaints. I'm back with shorty again and found an empty peak in plain sight. Surfed it for over an hour by myself and caught 18 waves...another good catch. Peaks were shifting east and west as is the norm for this beach break, and the sand bars this year peak in long lines laterally with the beach before dropping off a bit and then rebuilding. What this yields are waves at higher tide that jack up and then back off before cresting, making them harder to catch on a shorter board. Found some good lefts and rights though, good workout, surf jones satisfied.

July 30, 2007 (M)

In: 0945

1st Wave: 0950

Out: 1100

Wave count: 18

WT=57

AT=57

Wx: Thick marine layer overcast

Tide: Rising (2.7' to 3.7')

Wind: Moderate from the west northwest

Sea Surface: Light chop

Buoy: NWS

0900: 6.2 @ 10 NW

1000: 5.9 @ 8.3 NW

1100: 6.6 @ 10 NW

1100: 7.2 @ 9.1 NW

Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R)

Beaches: Sand bars

Waves: 3' @ 10 Storm Surf Buoy Model




No comments:

Post a Comment