First of Two Spring Swells Makes Landfall

The first of two pulses of relatively long period WNW swell made landfall early this morning. I paddled out in the overcast morning gloom at 0614. First stop, Sarges. The tide was moderately high and rising to somewhere around 4 ft. Sets were consistent, made up of chest/head high waves. I took a couple, one for a long ride past the nudie beach. But the higher tide and larger waves were causing a backwash off the point that put a lot of bump and chop onto the wave faces. Even though I was the only one out, and there were decent waves without kelp interference, I decided to head up to GW's, which looked pretty good. It felt good to be riding without having to worry about getting caught up in the kelp.

Greg and Steve were in the water when I arrived and consistent head high sets started pouring in. Steve had been out for a half hour all alone, taking down wave after wave. Scimi's was off the hook with pretty, a-frame overhead bombs pouring through, with even more consistency than GW's. Only a dozen guys out. The three of us surfed for another hour and a half before Greg and Steve had to go in. I surfed another half hour before I got tired, paddled back to Sarges and took a chest high closeout into the beach. Finally, some good Winter, high tide waves. Too bad Winter is over.

Greg got a nice one for one of the waves of the day. I hooked into a couple myself. Click HERE to see it full screen.



May 5, 2009 (M)

In: 0614
Out: 0845
AT= 54F
WT= 53F
Wx: 100% overcast with some light misting
Tide: 3.4' Rising to 3.8': Falling to 3.4'
Wind: Light southwesterlies
Sea Surface: Glassy to very light wind ripples
10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle

Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future Fiberglass YU (actual fin not shown)
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0600: 6.2 feet @ 11.8 W (4 - 6 ft. faces)
0630: 5.2 feet @ 12.5 WNW
0700: 4.9 feet @ 11.1 W (3 - 5 ft. faces)
0730: 5.2 feet @ 12.5 WNW
0800: 4.6 feet @ 10.5 W (4 - 6 ft. faces)
0830: 4.3 feet @ 10.5 WNW
0900: 5.2 feet @ 13.3 W (3 - 5 ft. faces)
0930: 4.3 feet @ 10.5 W