The first of two pulses of relatively long period WNW swell made landfall early this morning. I paddled

out in the overcast morning gloom at 0614. First stop, Sarges. The tide was moderately high and rising to somewhere around 4 ft. Sets were consistent, made up of chest/head high waves. I took a couple, one for a long ride past the nudie beach. But the higher tide and larger waves were causing a backwash off the point that put a lot of bump and chop onto the

wave faces. Even though I was the only one out, and there were decent waves without kelp interference, I decided to head up to GW's, which looked pretty good. It felt good to be riding without having to worry about getting caught up in the kelp.
Greg and Steve were in the water when I arrived and consistent head high sets started pouring in. Steve had been out for a half hour all alone, taking down wave after wave. Scimi's was off the hook with pretty, a-frame overhead bombs pouring through, with even more consistency than GW's. Only a dozen guys out. The

three of us surfed for another hour and a half before Greg and Steve had to go in. I surfed another half hour before I got tired, paddled back to Sarges and took a chest high closeout into the beach. Finally, some good Winter, high tide waves. Too bad Winter is over.
Greg got a nice one for one of the waves of the day. I hooked into a couple myself. Click
HERE to see it full screen.
Now that's a nice looking wave!
ReplyDeleteHey Ramsnake,
ReplyDeleteHope you're getting a lot of good ones down under. Yeah, I was glad to be able to get Greg on that wave. He surfs GDubs so well and he's a dawn patrol regular. Thanks for the comment. Take care and aloha.