First NPAC Swell of the Season; Conditions Perfect

Finally, fantastic conditions and an almost ground swell, conspired to create a beautiful morning of surfing in weather fit for Polynesia. Andy G and I hooked up for a pre-dawn, first light paddle out at Sarges. Already the usual suspects were on the scene and taking down some long and fast, well shaped rights. The tide was perfect too, riders were well out of the kelp and making sections was fun and exciting. It's what surfing's all about.

We surfed Sarges for a while, catching about a half dozen waves, then headed to Middles for a few more. We roamed around between Middies and catching the wide ones that everyone surfing at GDub's was out of position for. That's what SUPs are for right? We take the ones the laydown surfers can't or don't take, the leftovers, the trash. They shouldn't call us sweepers, we're more like Trashmen and women. (Although I don't think many women would relish being called "Trashy," but most guys would wear it as a badge of honor. "Yeah, you can call me trashy!") Of course, every once in a while we ARE in the right spot at the right time to take that set wave of the day. The waves seemed to get a bit more inconsistent and fatter as the tide came in later in the morning. But a sea spray mist hung heavy on the surface all along the reefy coastline, so there was still plenty of power left in the best waves that came through.

There were a lot of waves today and surprisingly, not all that many people out. Must be because Summer is "over," and everyone is back to work or back to school. It's not like the swell wasn't fairly well hyped. And it's the weekend. Go figure.

After surfing, M and I took Cloud for a walk at Platty's and Can Openers. There were a couple guys out dropping in on some overhead bombs with not much room to run. A few guys nailed some decent corners but overall the rides were short and violent. Beach break for sure. What a beautiful day!

August 29, 2009 (Sa)

In: 0605
Out: 0830
AT= 59F to 75F
WT= 58.6F
Wx: Clear and sunny with some high scattered clouds
Tide: 3.1' Rising to 3.8' Falling
Wind: Light offshore to light from the SW
Sea Surface: Mostly glassy with some backwash bump at the higher tide

10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddleFin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and RFC Speedwings
Bathymetry: Rock reefs and sand
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore-Nearshore)
Time NDBC Data (approx.) CDIP Data
0500: 8.2 feet @ 13.8 WNW - 6.2 feet @ 11.1 WNW (280 and 170) (4-6 ft. wave faces)
0600: 10.2 feet @ 12.8 WNW - 5.2 feet @ 13.3 W (290 and 170) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0700: 9.5 feet @ 12.9 WNW - 5.6 feet @ 13.3 W (295 and 180) (4-6 ft. wave faces)
0800: 9.2 feet @ 12.9 WNW - 5.2 feet @ 13.3 W (295 and 195) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0900: 8.5 feet @ 12.9 WNW - 5.9 feet @ 13.3 W (295 and 185) (4-6 ft. wave faces)
1000: 9.8 feet @ 12.9 WNW - 6.9 feet @ 13.3 W (295 and 185) (3-5 ft. wave faces)