Due to the lack of sand movement, there just aren't any sandbars working to create good waves. The swell picked up a bit over yesterday, and it was pretty consistent, it's just that there wasn't much shape, and very few peaks with corners. It really looked good from the beach, but once in, I spent a lot of time chasing peaks that just weren't there. There was an occassional drop in and quick pump before the curtain dropped. But mostly, it was close-outs.
No matter. Today was definitely good just because of the conditions.
NOTE: As per usual I take a few photos after my sessions to document the blog post. I just happened to shoot the best wave I saw all morning. The series shows a neophyte longboarder who didn't even know what hit him, and then held on for dear life. Nice ride.
August 28, 2009 (F)
In: 0805
Out: 0905
AT= 56-74F
WT= 58F
Wx: Clear and warm with high tropical clouds
Tide: 3.5' Falling to 3.4'
Wind: Light offshore
Sea Surface: Glassy with very light wind ripples
6-0 Freeline (Mini-Simmons) Ghost Buster with twin glassed on keel fins
Bathymetry: Sand barsOut: 0905
AT= 56-74F
WT= 58F
Wx: Clear and warm with high tropical clouds
Tide: 3.5' Falling to 3.4'
Wind: Light offshore
Sea Surface: Glassy with very light wind ripples
6-0 Freeline (Mini-Simmons) Ghost Buster with twin glassed on keel fins
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore-Nearshore)
Time NDBC Data (approx.) CDIP Data
0700: 4.3 feet @ 11.4 SSW - 2.0 feet @ 14.3 WSW (290 and 165) (2-3 ft. wave faces)
0800: 4.6 feet @ 10.8 SW - 2.0 feet @ 12.5 WSW (310 and 185) (2-3 ft. wave faces)
0900: 4.9 feet @ 11.4 SW - 2.3 feet @ 15.4 SW (295 and 180) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
1000: 5.6 feet @ 10.8 WSW - 2.6 feet @ 10.5 W (280 and 175) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
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