Srfnff

Srfnff
G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Friday, September 18, 2009

New Wind Swell Disappoints With Inconsistent 2-3 Ft. Surf

I thought I'd get an hour of good waves on the dawn patrol this morning. All the numbers looked good, much better than yesterday, yet the surf was about the same size, less consistent and soft. Why is this? Less deep water swell energy is my guess at the moment. But why did all the measuring devices show numbers that in the past would have produced good waves. No se.

Whatever, the sunrise and weather were spectacular. I was in the water paddling at 0614, the peachy blue sky lightening over the mountain ridges. We don't live in a mechanical universe. God doesn't live in a test tube. (Neither did today's waves!)

All data below needs updating. I'm late for school.
September 18, 2009 (F)
In: 0635
Out: 0810
AT= 57F-56.3F (Yep, it got colder as the day wore on. Still Indian Summer though.)
WT= 57F
Wx: Heavy fog
Tide: 1.76' Rising to 3.94'
Wind: Calm to very light onshore
Sea Surface: Mostly glassy
5-11 Freeline Ghost Buster 2 Mini-Simmons
Bathymetry: Reef and sand
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore #1-Nearshore-Farshore #2)
Time-NDBC Data-CDIP Data (Primary Swell Dir.)(Local Wave Ht. Avg.)
0500: 5.6 feet @ 13.8 W - 2.6 feet @ 13.3 WSW (285) (2-3 ft. faces)
0600: 5.2 feet @ 12.9 W - 2.6 feet @ 10.5 W (300) (1-3 ft. faces)
0700: 5.6 feet @ 7.7 WNW - 2.6 feet @ 13.3 W (290) (1-3 ft. faces)
0800: 4.3 feet @ 12.9 W - 2.6 feet @ 13.3 W (290) (2-3 ft. faces)
0900: 5.9 feet @ 13.8 WSW - 2.3 feet @ 12.5 W (290) (2-3 ft. faces)
1000: 5.2 feet @ 7.7 WNW - 2.0 feet @ 12.5 W (no data) (2-3 ft. faces)
1100: 5.2 feet @ 12.1 WNW - 2.6 feet @ 12.5 W (no data) (2-3 ft. faces)

1 comment:

  1. Looked serviceable as I left the west side this a.m. Dawn on Sat, usual spot?

    ReplyDelete