G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Small Wind Swell Energy With 2-3 Ft. Waves

I was hoping the incoming NPAC wind swell was going to kick in this morning but it didn't. Surfed a mix of residual wind swell, maybe a little southwesterly and/or some forerunners from the incoming new NPAC wind swell. Still, it wasn't bad, just less energy and a little smaller with longer waits than day before yesterday.

The marine layer has reinstated and it was thick, pea-soup type fog at the beach. I surfed #3's for an hour and a half and got some good waves and some close outs. The good waves were very, very good; and the bad waves weren't all that bad. The GB2 mini handles closeouts very well and I was able to outrun a lot of the folded sections and make it back into the clear wave face. The board is just amazingly functional and efficient.

There is a lot of west in the swell (maybe even some southwest) which is causing the bowls to break in sections. So I could sit on 3's, wait for one that swung wide and take off in the section peak with no fear of cutting another rider off. That changes when we get more definitive NW wrap. That's when Scimi's is a wonder to behold with the best riders hooking up all the sections for fast and furious, bowling, barreling rides into GDubs and beyond. Maybe we'll get some of those epic northwests later this Winter?

September 17, 2009 (Th)
In: 0635
Out: 0810
AT= 57F-56.3F (Yep, it got colder as the day wore on. Still Indian Summer though.)
WT= 57F
Wx: Heavy fog
Tide: 1.76' Rising to 3.94'
Wind: Calm to very light onshore
Sea Surface: Mostly glassy
5-11 Freeline Ghost Buster 2 Mini-Simmons
Bathymetry: Reef and sand
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore #1-Nearshore-Farshore #2)
Time-NDBC Data-CDIP Data (Primary Swell Dir.)(Local Wave Ht. Avg.)
0500: 5.6 feet @ 13.8 W - 2.6 feet @ 13.3 WSW (285) (2-3 ft. faces)
0600: 5.2 feet @ 12.9 W - 2.6 feet @ 10.5 W (300) (1-3 ft. faces)
0700: 5.6 feet @ 7.7 WNW - 2.6 feet @ 13.3 W (290) (1-3 ft. faces)
0800: 4.3 feet @ 12.9 W - 2.6 feet @ 13.3 W (290) (2-3 ft. faces)
0900: 5.9 feet @ 13.8 WSW - 2.3 feet @ 12.5 W (290) (2-3 ft. faces)
1000: 5.2 feet @ 7.7 WNW - 2.0 feet @ 12.5 W (no data) (2-3 ft. faces)
1100: 5.2 feet @ 12.1 WNW - 2.6 feet @ 12.5 W (no data) (2-3 ft. faces)

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