January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Small Wind Swell Waves in Perfect Fall Weather

Even the wind swells are calming down. Primarily because the power source is blowing out of the north. While the consequences of that are smaller surf, those same winds have scoured everything clean. Air quality and visibility is as only it can get here in these conditions. Some say that when it gets like this, the last people to breath in our air were the Japanese. There's a lot of scrubbing and cleaning going on between there, and here.

With the marine layer blown to smithereens, the unfiltered sun has had a clear shot at the ocean, inducing a full blown algae bloom. I checked the beaches before surfing the smallies at the reefs and it was magnificently rusty. As far as I could see upcoast and down, and out at least a mile, the ocean was the color of decarbonated root beer with about 50% water added. When it gets really bad I just break out the SUP and stay above the water. But not having it with me, I headed from the beaches to the reefs and surfed what was there for an hour point five.

It is all I'm going to get 'cause I teach all day tomorrow and Saturday and Sunday is either church or the weather looks like it could get sketchy with low pressure moving through, accompanied by unfriendly winds.

Once again the GB2 mini-sims worked great, catching lots of teeny waves no problem. A good workout in an even better day.

October 1, 2009 (Th)
In: 1430
Out: 1600
AT= 69-70F
WT= 56.7F
Wx: Sunny, crisp and clear
Tide: 1.9' Falling to 1.58' to 1.6 Rising
Wind: Light northerly
Sea Surface: Mostly glassy
5-11 Freeline Ghost Buster 2 Mini-Simmons
Bathymetry: Reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore #1-Nearshore-Farshore #2)
Time-NDBC Data-CDIP Data (Primary Swell Dir.)(Local Wave Ht. Avg.)
1300: 8.5 feet @ 10.8 NW - 2.6 feet @ 10.5 WNW (295) (1-2 ft. faces)
1400: 8.5 feet @ 10.0 NW - 2.6 feet @ 10.5 WNW (305) (1-2 ft. faces)
1500: 7.5 feet @ 10.0 NW - 2.3 feet @ 11.1 WNW (305) (1-2 ft. faces)
1600: 6.6 feet @ 10.0 NW - 2.0 feet @ 10.5 WNW (no data) (no data)


  1. Took a friend out tonight at Sarge's and we had the joint to ourselves. Waves were small but clean, and the evening was nothing short of beautiful. A great night to get a guy out who hasn't been on a board in 4 or 5 years, and he did quite well. I surfed the Jed 10' and am really digging the glide and old school flat rocker on that board.


  2. For sure! You probably picked the best night of the year to go out. Tell you what, it was worth it just for the weather. Gotta get what you can get when you can get it.