Short Lived WSW

A new, but short duration WSW swell made landfall last night. This morning's ground swell lines were pushing in some good waves for the morning crew. Not too crowded, fairly consistent and pre-rain, light southerly wind conditions conspired to make for a fun time for all.

I finally felt well enough to get back in the water, heading out on the stand up. I figured it would be better to be "on" the water than "in" the water. Amazing how a few days off can take the edge right off one's surfing and one's stamina. Only four out at Sarge's when I glided into the line-up. Tim, Joanna, a local pro and a guy getting a lesson from the local pro. It lulled just when I arrived, and after one surprise wave that popped up, I headed down to Casa's and GDubs. Only Shaun was out at Casa's and only three guys out at GDubs, almost deserted.

The waves picked up quickly and I surfed for the next 45 minutes on the merry go round. The tide on entry was about 3 ft. and even at that, the inside at Sarge's was a kelp obstacle course. It wasn't bad everywhere else though and I was glad for a short break after the first part of the session. I wandered back and forth between GDubs wide and CR's. Most rides were fairly short, but armored up with some steep sections and takeoffs on the best waves. The swell was strong and even though it shown nicely through the higher tide, after a while all that "extra" water ended up rendering most the waves fat and lumpy backwash jumbled shadows of their earlier selves.

Shaun told me to take it easy this first session back so I decided following his advice would be a good move. After an hour thirty I caught a set wave that put me into the rip-rap point, which by now was a roiling, whack-a-mole cauldron of incoming surge and side wash off the big rocks. I gracelessly exited the water and was lucky I didn't get washed into the stairway rock, which was puking incoming waves right back out to sea in a messy flurry of foamy energy and water.

This could be it for the reefs for a while. Time to hit the beaches, hope it's not too big.

December 21, 2009

In: 0740
Out: 0910
AT= 51.6-53.2F
WT= 55.6F
Wx: Overcast with rain clouds
Tide: 3.1' Rising to 3.62'
Wind: Calm to light south easterly winds
Sea Surface: Glassy with some light outer waters induced wind bumps, and some backwash in the rising tide.

10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (first mark up from back) and RFC Speedwings
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 3-5 ft.