G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

NW Ground and Nearshore Wind Swell

In all honesty I delayed waking up this morning because I didn't think the longer period, but steep NW swell was going to show very well. And even if it did I reasoned, it would be really inconsistent. I was sorta right, but mostly wrong. The new NW was showing nicely all along the lower reefs, but it was somewhat inconsistent. But mixed in was the nearshore wind swell from the big northerly post-frontal winds that were blowing. The dawn patrol crew got the prize though, and surfed for about an hour and a half in clean and glassy head high to overhead waves.

As I paddled out most of them were finishing up a very fun morning of uncrowded waves in great conditions. I SUP surfed for another hour and forty-five before the tide swamped it a bit, and the swell lulled. Really, the numbers were all over the place for this swell. The long period swell peaked around 4 or 5AM, while the wind swell jump around and was still showing strong later in the afternoon. Again, I ended up riding wide at Sarge's and picking off some great waves when the long period west pushed the lines right to me, and past the point surfers who were sitting further out.

Still, had I been an earlier bird, I may have gotten a better worm.
December 22, 2009
In: 0850
Out: 1035
AT= 49-56F
WT= 55F
Wx: Sunny, clear and clean with light scattered cumulus. Beautiful!
Tide: 3.02' Rising to 3.42'
Wind: Calm to northwest to calm to offshore northerly
Sea Surface: Glassy to wind rippled sea surface. Some backwash bump and outer water wind chop.
10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (first mark up from back) and RFC Speedwings
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 3-5 ft.


  1. Went out today (Christmas Eve) at about 10, stayed in until almost 1. Not real good, but what a day! Towards the end the new swell started to show, and the last hour was a lot of fun. Surfed GWs, Sam paddled through, nice day over all. Off to the kids Christmas Pageant...

    Merry Christmas,

  2. Christmas is coming the surf won't be so flat...empty peelers coming (keep it under your hat).

  3. Twas the night before Christmas and all through the beach, the swell is awakening, and will soon be within reach;

    The wetsuits were hung along the fence line with care,
    In hopes that a new groundswell soon would be here;

    The surfers were nestled all snug in there beds,
    While visions of the green room danced in their heads...

  4. May I just say with all due respect, as poets, we stink! ;-) Most Merry Christmas my brother.

  5. Agreed, but I'd rather be a surfer than a poet any day. A joyus Christmas to you and your family as well.

    PS Santa brought me an HD GoPro camera...woo hoo!

  6. Very cool...Sam sent me a bunch of his GoPro pics which I was going to post and never got around to it. Send me some of yours and I'll do a Sam and Andy compilation.

    Did you get that new (used) two-piece?