Friday April 23 2010
By the time I got to my favorite reef there were already two longboarders on it. That's what I get for being a sack hound. So I headed down coast and found a not nearly as good sand bar, but with no one on it. Fact is, it just wasn't "good" at all, it was just severely underpopulated.
An hour and twenty minutes. That's how long it took to get my first (and last) really good wave of the session. This wave had at least a lined up wall with room to play on it until it collapsed on the beach. I was having an off day anyway, so the surf being not all that great wasn't like a lost opportunity. I worked out hard Thursday and my lower body was sore and stiff. Consequently my pop-ups were more like stagger-ups. My hips were sore and I just couldn't get it together. I kept catching the rubber toes of my booties on the waxed up deck, it was just a mess. Bad days. Everyone has 'em, everyone hates 'em.
I had an almost two hour session though, so it was a good workout; the sun was shining; not may people around and the whales are back so...who can complain?
Monday April 26, 2010
The weekend weather proved to be spectacular. Me and the girls headed to the Pinnacles on Saturday to catch the wildflower show. Magnificent. Sunday the weather was even better and the crowd was in maximum attendance, so I was really looking forward to an early morning Monday session at the Jolly Roger bars.
I paddled out at seven, which again was a little late. Had I been in the water at daylight I could have surfed two hours of super fun waves solo. As it was, I surfed for an hour until Paul and Nan paddled into the line-up. By then the tide was up and the surf a bit more inconsistent with more water moving through, causing some swelling and sluggish double-ups that just popped up and doubled up, or faded away. But, there were still the occasional shoulder high sets that poured through, putting up some fast lines all the way to the sand. I surfed the Freeline 7-0 HGS and once again, caught a ton of waves and had a great time on this fantastic all arounder.
At 7, low clouds and fog were way down coast. The sun was just coming over the houses, and the two guys surfing the left were sitting in pure sunshine. Since I was a little further upcoast, it took the sun a couple waves before it bathed me in it's light and warmth. But I didn't get to enjoy the warmth all that much, there were just too many waves to surf. I started hoping for an occasional lull so I could catch my breath and stretch out a little. By the time Nan and Paul came out things calmed down enough to sit around and chat in the line-up. Always a great recipe for getting caught unawares by some really good waves.
After another twenty minutes the fog started blowing in from the east and I took one in to the beach just as another longboarder paddled into the line-up, making it three. I smugly told myself that I'd gotten the best and the tide was getting too high anyway. I thought these humbling things just as two, four-wave sets piled through, giving each one of the three longboarders in the line-up two each long and walled up waves from peak to sand. Matter of fact, the last to arrive white hair guy got the wave of the day from my perspective. So much for smugness.
But this may be the last chance to surf for a few days. The NWS is pretty adamant about the coming rain and bad juju winds. Will there will be more fun waves after this storm. For shore! Not so sure I could have made that comment last year. And what else too? We haven't gotten our good Spring south swell yet.