Thursday December 16, 2010
If Monday was just a wee bit too small, and yesterday a bit too big, today was just right. Jeff was up into NorCal from the Osos Nation and we hit the beaches just right for a fun surf in near perfect conditions before the deluge.
The smaller waves made it more inviting to surf the sand bar I've been riding and there were already three guys on it. One longboarder and (much to my surprise) two yakers. But there were plenty of waves for everyone and we were soon taking advantage of the well formed lines that were consistently peeling their way towards shore. The take-off spot had moved back to Monday's location and with bright sunshine and bigger waves it was a redux of Monday only better.
It's been a blessing of good timing and surf to get good waves just prior to the series of storms that are sending precursor clouds over our area as I write. Forecasts are for copious amounts of rain and high winds at least through the weekend and perhaps even into the heart of next week. Plenty of snow in the Sierras for those new Christmas snowboards.
Happy holidays everyone and Merry Christmas to all.