EPIC! One-Day WNW Swell

Monday January 9, 2012 - This was by far the biggest, the best and least crowded swell of the 2011/12 season. None of the forecasters got this one right so there was very little hype and publicity. At least half of the sparse crowd out in the water had no clue. The best waves were easy pickin's and no hassle. Most of the surfers in the line-up were sitting too far outside and were just as glad to let the big ones go by anyway. It was a field day for those who knew what they were doing. Conditions were perfect. Clear, glassy and warm with light offshores. 

When I was out (3:30 - 5:30P) the biggest waves were not necessarily the longest rides but there were many solid 350 yard, 6-8 ft. waves in the mix. The best strategy was to post up at the Yellow House Point take-off and wait. Taking an early wave usually meant getting caught in the white water (whether you kicked out or bailed) no matter where you ended up on the playing field. That location would vary depending upon where the wave closed out or sectioned out. But if you made it into or close to the pier (a 600 yard ride!) your best bet was to get out, walk to the down-current side of the wharf and wait for a lull. Then paddle back out along and around the end of the pier making sure to clear all the monofilament in the water from the fisherpeeps on the wharf. 

How easy was it to get side-tracked on your way out the back to Yellow House by an incoming set? Real easy, but you'd only get a 350 yard ride.....awwww, poor baby. This is what happened to me near dark. I ended up getting one of my best waves of the day just as it got too dark for me to see any longer. I turned off the wave face and slid the whitewash into Pooper's as the pier loomed up in front of me. It was too dark to paddle back so I climbed the stairs and walked back to my car at Sarges. Got dressed and arrived at one of the overlooks just as this gigantic full moon was peeking above the mountain horizon. Just an incredible weather and surf day. Video is using my backup waterproof cam which has some severe limitations compared to the Kodak. Still shots are from my Canon SX40 bridge camera.