Dolphins

Thanks to Jeff for this one.

NW Wind Swell with Wind Chop on Top

The nearshore wind swell was 7-8 ft. at 10 seconds. By the time I paddled out at 1130, there was a light southwest wind which was making the tops crumble. Wave faces were 3-5 ft. with lots of wind chop on top. The shore pound was relentless and the side current had to be running 10-15 mph. I looked for a long time before paddling out at CG's 'cause I couldn't see any workable corners. Everything looked like it was just folding over, or sectioning after a short ride. I finally found a peak that had a shoulder, and that was worth the 10 minutes of wading and paddling through the shore pound to get to. I had the new RFC Speedwings demo fins in and I really wanted to give 'em a go.

In forty-five minutes I got three waves, but they were good ones, and gave me a chance to see how the Speedwings performed. The fins work amazingly well, and as advertised. It was impossible to take the smaller waves in the set because you'd just get caught inside, so I had to wait for the biggest waves in the sets that were actually putting up shoulders. About every third set produced some decent waves. Take-offs were fat and slopey, then the wave, by shear volume of water, quickly developed into sections of speed walls whose tops would pitch forward slightly before crumbling. There was enough room to surf under and around the crumbles before banking off the top and finding the next section. All three waves were surfed into the beach which surprised me. The Speedwings in fact did provide drive and speed, along with a secure feeling that they were biting in and moving out without hesitation. There was a lot of bump on the wave faces, and the board and fins handled it well. I matched the Speedwings with a Future Eric Arakawa 450 composite center fin so I would have three equal size fins. Overall I really like the feel and performance of the Speedwings and I'm going to buy a set. I'm also looking forward to trying them in my Angulo SUP.

After my second wave I just got out and walked back up the beach, and past the take off spot so that I would be fairly close to it when I paddled back out again. Sure enough, the side current carried me out and past the take-off and I had to paddle back up to it for my last ride, which was another 75-yarder which took me almost to Dream House. The wind was starting to increase and I'd found out what I needed to know. I called it a day and was happy with three solid rides and a new set of fins.

Pics are after the sesh at another location not far upcoast. It was a bit smaller up there.

June 22, 2009 (M)

In: 1130
Out: 1215
AT= 60F
WT= 56.5
Wx: Sunny
Tide: 4.0' Rising
Wind: Light southwesterlies
Sea Surface: Lot's of wind chop but no whitecaps
6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom

Fin set-up: Thruster with RFC Speedwings and Future Eric Arakawa 450 center
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore*)
Time NDBC Data CDIP Data
1000: 8.2 feet @ 9.1 NW (305) (1-3 ft. wave faces)
1100: 7.9 feet @ 10 NW (310) (1-3 ft. wave faces)
1200: 6.9 feet @ 10 NW (305) (1-3 ft. wave faces)
1300: 6.6 feet @ 10 NW (295) (1-3 ft. wave faces)
1400: 6.2 feet @ 9.1 NW (300) (1-3 ft. wave faces)

Chilean/SW Swells - SUP Session

I got home from the morning session, threw all my stuff into the bathtub, rinsed it good and jumped on the computer. My morning observations were confirmed. This swell was intensifying, and there was no guarantee it would last. 1100 hours was low tide. The midday session would be low tide rising into an increasing swell. What was there to wait for?

My back wasn't going to hold up for another shortboard session, so the SUP got the call. I stretched and warmed up on the beach with John from Freeline, who was heading out on his Laird 12-footer. We paddled out at 1130 into an eight wave set of 2-3 ft. whitewater. Welcome to Sarges.

It was still wally and there were some bombs coming though. None of 'em that I could see, or rode, were makeable. I headed over to Middies as I knew that would be a good and fast (albeit short) ride while we waited for the tide to rise. Paul and his son Will were on it, and taking down a few speedy lines. As the tide came up GDubs, which was crowded with shorties, kept getting better and better...it was getting freaking epic.

I kept my eye on Sarges and Yellow House. YH needs a low tide, and I thought it was finished. I was so wrong! Surftech John paddled out on the new Surftech Jerry Lopez model, and proceeded to rip. Finally, I paddled down to the Yellow House and surfed with Dave and Max for the remainder of the three hour session. Waves and sets were uncharacteristically consistent. Most of the time it was a merry-go-round. I hooked into a number of doubles and triples that had me kicking out past Dick's.

The wind came up pretty strong out of the southwest and that didn't help the fatigue factor any. Finally, I had to call it quits, I was getting too tired to control my board on easy maneuvers that would have been a piece of cake had I been fresh.

What a great session...what a great swell!

Note: Pic is not very representative of the session. I took it way after I got out. I'm not sure what the brown smudges are...I guess I should clean the lenses.
June 16, 2009 (Tu) SUP Session

In: 1130
Out: 1430
AT= 63.5F
WT= 58.5F
Wx: Mostly sunny to start with high cloud cover later.
Tide: 1.4 Rising to 3.2
Wind: Light to moderate south westerlies
Sea Surface: Light wind ripples to moderate wind chop later
10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle

Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future Fiberglass YU (actual fin not shown)
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore)
Time NDBC Data CDIP Data
1100: 4.6 feet @ 14.8 S (200) (3-5 ft. wave faces)
1200: 4.6 feet @ 16 S (220) (3-5 ft. wave faces)
1300: 4.9 feet @ 14.8 SSE (175) (3-5 ft. wave faces)
1400: 4.3 feet @ 14.8 SSE (190) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
1500: 4.3 feet @ 14.8 S (180) (3-4 ft. wave faces)
1600: 4.3 feet @ 14.8 S (185) (2-4 ft. wave faces)

Chilean/SW Swells - Shortboard Session

I knew there would be fresh swell in the water today, but I wasn't prepared for how INSANELY good it was. Paddled out on the 6-10 at 0555 at GDubs. Five guys on the main peak, all good surfers. Of the dozen or so waves I got this morning, I count myself fortunate to have taken down three fast, long lines in the first hour, especially considering that all the waves weren't lining up all that well. Better than any of the previous south swell we've gotten, but as the tide receded the tendency was for more, rather than less walliness.

Paul was out on his new Haut...super nice performance longboard twinzer with channels out the tail. Fast. It will be a perfect big wave winter board, and it works good in these fast zippers too.

My back started complaining after about an hour and a half so I headed up coast a couple peaks and took one in. Best waves of the June south swells so far for me.

After the surf, Glen, owner of Rainbow Fin Co. and I chatted about fins. RFC has a new one they've designed based upon the "winglets" used in the aerospace industry. They call them the Speedwing Fins and Glen says they create lift, speed and drive. He said to head on over to Freeline 'cause they've got a set of demos I could try. I picked 'em up about 15 minutes later. I'll slap 'em into the fin slots tonight and try them tomorrow morning....body willing of course.

Meanwhile, the swell appeared to be building.

June 16, 2009 (Tu)

In: 0555
Out: 0740
AT= 58F
WT= 58.5
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: 2.91' Falling to 2.38' Rising
Wind: Calm to light offshore
Sea Surface: Glassy to Light wind ripples
6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom

Fin set-up: Thruster with Future Fins AM1 and Future 350 sidebites
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore*)
Time NDBC Data CDIP Data
0500: 4.6 feet @ 16 SSE (180) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0600: 3.9 feet @ 16 SSE (180) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0700: 3.9 feet @ 16 S (175) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0800: 4.6 feet @ 16 S (190) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0900: 3.9 feet @ 16 S (205) (3-5 ft. wave faces)
1000: 4.3 feet @ 16 S (210) (4-6 ft. wave faces)