NW Wind Swell with Wind Chop on Top

The nearshore wind swell was 7-8 ft. at 10 seconds. By the time I paddled out at 1130, there was a light southwest wind which was making the tops crumble. Wave faces were 3-5 ft. with lots of wind chop on top. The shore pound was relentless and the side current had to be running 10-15 mph. I looked for a long time before paddling out at CG's 'cause I couldn't see any workable corners. Everything looked like it was just folding over, or sectioning after a short ride. I finally found a peak that had a shoulder, and that was worth the 10 minutes of wading and paddling through the shore pound to get to. I had the new RFC Speedwings demo fins in and I really wanted to give 'em a go.

In forty-five minutes I got three waves, but they were good ones, and gave me a chance to see how the Speedwings performed. The fins work amazingly well, and as advertised. It was impossible to take the smaller waves in the set because you'd just get caught inside, so I had to wait for the biggest waves in the sets that were actually putting up shoulders. About every third set produced some decent waves. Take-offs were fat and slopey, then the wave, by shear volume of water, quickly developed into sections of speed walls whose tops would pitch forward slightly before crumbling. There was enough room to surf under and around the crumbles before banking off the top and finding the next section. All three waves were surfed into the beach which surprised me. The Speedwings in fact did provide drive and speed, along with a secure feeling that they were biting in and moving out without hesitation. There was a lot of bump on the wave faces, and the board and fins handled it well. I matched the Speedwings with a Future Eric Arakawa 450 composite center fin so I would have three equal size fins. Overall I really like the feel and performance of the Speedwings and I'm going to buy a set. I'm also looking forward to trying them in my Angulo SUP.

After my second wave I just got out and walked back up the beach, and past the take off spot so that I would be fairly close to it when I paddled back out again. Sure enough, the side current carried me out and past the take-off and I had to paddle back up to it for my last ride, which was another 75-yarder which took me almost to Dream House. The wind was starting to increase and I'd found out what I needed to know. I called it a day and was happy with three solid rides and a new set of fins.

Pics are after the sesh at another location not far upcoast. It was a bit smaller up there.

June 22, 2009 (M)

In: 1130
Out: 1215
AT= 60F
WT= 56.5
Wx: Sunny
Tide: 4.0' Rising
Wind: Light southwesterlies
Sea Surface: Lot's of wind chop but no whitecaps
6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom

Fin set-up: Thruster with RFC Speedwings and Future Eric Arakawa 450 center
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore*)
Time NDBC Data CDIP Data
1000: 8.2 feet @ 9.1 NW (305) (1-3 ft. wave faces)
1100: 7.9 feet @ 10 NW (310) (1-3 ft. wave faces)
1200: 6.9 feet @ 10 NW (305) (1-3 ft. wave faces)
1300: 6.6 feet @ 10 NW (295) (1-3 ft. wave faces)
1400: 6.2 feet @ 9.1 NW (300) (1-3 ft. wave faces)