Chilean/SW Swells - Shortboard Session

I knew there would be fresh swell in the water today, but I wasn't prepared for how INSANELY good it was. Paddled out on the 6-10 at 0555 at GDubs. Five guys on the main peak, all good surfers. Of the dozen or so waves I got this morning, I count myself fortunate to have taken down three fast, long lines in the first hour, especially considering that all the waves weren't lining up all that well. Better than any of the previous south swell we've gotten, but as the tide receded the tendency was for more, rather than less walliness.

Paul was out on his new Haut...super nice performance longboard twinzer with channels out the tail. Fast. It will be a perfect big wave winter board, and it works good in these fast zippers too.

My back started complaining after about an hour and a half so I headed up coast a couple peaks and took one in. Best waves of the June south swells so far for me.

After the surf, Glen, owner of Rainbow Fin Co. and I chatted about fins. RFC has a new one they've designed based upon the "winglets" used in the aerospace industry. They call them the Speedwing Fins and Glen says they create lift, speed and drive. He said to head on over to Freeline 'cause they've got a set of demos I could try. I picked 'em up about 15 minutes later. I'll slap 'em into the fin slots tonight and try them tomorrow morning....body willing of course.

Meanwhile, the swell appeared to be building.

June 16, 2009 (Tu)

In: 0555
Out: 0740
AT= 58F
WT= 58.5
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: 2.91' Falling to 2.38' Rising
Wind: Calm to light offshore
Sea Surface: Glassy to Light wind ripples
6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom

Fin set-up: Thruster with Future Fins AM1 and Future 350 sidebites
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore*)
Time NDBC Data CDIP Data
0500: 4.6 feet @ 16 SSE (180) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0600: 3.9 feet @ 16 SSE (180) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0700: 3.9 feet @ 16 S (175) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0800: 4.6 feet @ 16 S (190) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0900: 3.9 feet @ 16 S (205) (3-5 ft. wave faces)
1000: 4.3 feet @ 16 S (210) (4-6 ft. wave faces)