G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Wind Swell Drops, Temps Cool

With the shifting of high and low pressure systems it looks like the marine layer may begin mixing out in the next couple days. This will be accompanied by a temperature drop. The north-south pressure gradient has eased and the wind swell has decreased. Waves are smaller by half since my last post. A mild onshore is still with us. I surfed a different beach break this morning in small, quick zipping dumpers that yielded only a wall or two...a few good lefts and a couple rights amongst many take-offs. Low tides this summer have been the best time as the waves start to swamp at higher tides. Water temps are back down into the mid to high 50's and it feels cold. Upwelling is uncomfortably prevalent and without sun and with the incessant downslope flow there is no warm water layer at the surface. Paddles out were easy and the shifting peaks close to shore. I caught ten waves in my first fourteen minutes on the 6' Quad fish. Total count was TNC (too numerous to count). Hooked up with Al in the parking lot, he with his McTavish longboard. (Probably a better choice for the conditions presented.) Al's a gutsy surfer having his left hip rebuilt several months ago and now back in the water. He's going for a right side remodel too. Always a pleasure surfing with him. Good man, good attitude.
August 1, 2007 (W)
In: 0931
1st Wave: 0934
Out: 1110
Wave count: TNC
WT=58 (Felt like 55)
Wx: Thick marine layer overcast
Tide: Rising (1.3' to 3.5')
Wind: Light from the west
Sea Surface: Light texture
Buoy: NWS
0900: 4.6 @ 10 NW
1000: 4.9 @ 8.3 NW
1100: 4.6 @ 10 NW
1200: 4.9 @ 10 NW
Quad Fish - Fins:Future Scimitar 451 (F) 375 Pivot (R)
Beaches: Sand bars
Waves: Offline at time of filing Storm Surf Buoy Model

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