The forecast small NW wind swell arrived pretty much on schedule last night. It was completely swamped by the high morning tides, and after decreasing a bit in period, and increasing a bit in swell height, delivered some fun waves all afternoon. I spent 4.5 hours in the water, surfing from GW's to Yellow House and practically all points in between. It was an incredibly great workout, in unusually beautiful winter conditions and I put a ton of waves under my board.
A light southwest wind blew from put in to take out, but it didn't bother conditions at all. Mostly the sea surface was as smooth as it gets, and the kelp kept it glassy. The crowd was light, only about 16 people in the water total, and I knew half of them. Barry, Serge, Mike and his buddy, Sam and a couple local guys I recognize but I don't know their names. Today was one of those days where the surf wasn't very big, but it was medium consistent. Lots of waves for everyone to catch. With the dropping tide, the insiders were fast and full of walls and sections. It was challenging and fun and relatively inconsequential for mistakes. (Although I did manage to fall on my rib injury once, that hurt!)
In the end I was getting tired and just paddled down to YH to see if anything was shaking. I didn't expect much, thinking the swell wasn't big enough to make it work. But the low tide enabled the pulses to form up over the reef and actuate some nice knee/waist high peelers. I was only going to spend about 20 minutes there but then Sammy joined me and we were there for an hour and a half.
Picking up on an idea I read in one of Blane's post on Stand Up Forum, I made half-inch increment marks on my fin box, starting with my small fin (thruster set-up) all the way back. Each time I surf I'm going to move it up one mark and note the difference. So far I surfed it all the way back, and one-half inch up. Amazing what a difference it makes. The board surfs a little looser with no negative consequence one notch up from all the way back. The tail slides a little bit, but then tucks right back into the wave face. I love this kind of stuff.
After a session like today, I feel so satisfied. Physically spent; emotionally and spiritually soaring!
Dec 11, 2008 (Th)
AT= 56.1F to 55.8F
Wx: Clear and sunny with some high wispy clouds
Tide: 2.8' Falling to -1.46 Rising
Wind: Light from the southwest
Sea Surface: Mostly glassy with very light wind ripple occasionally
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (second mark up from back) and Future FJC1
CDIP: Deep Water Swell
1200: 7.4 feet @ 14 WNW (300 degrees-NPAC) and 2 @ 14.0 SSW (205 degrees-SPAC)
1300: 7.4 feet @ 14 WNW (315 degrees-NPAC) and 2.6 @ 14.0 SW (230 degrees-SPAC)
1400: 8.3 feet @ 14 WNW (295 degrees-NPAC) and 1.2 @ 12.0 SSW (195 degrees-SPAC)
1500: 6.3 feet @ 12 WNW (300 degrees-NPAC) and 1.5 @ 14.0 SSW (180 degrees-SPAC)
1600: 7.7 feet @ 14 WNW (300 degrees-NPAC) and 1.7 @ 14.0 SSW (180 degrees-SPAC)
CDIP and first person observations: Wave Face Heights
1200: 3-6 feet
1300: 2-5 feet
1400: 3-5 feet
1500: 2-4 feet
1600: 2-5 feet
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
1200: 3.9 feet @ 14.3 WNW
1300: 3.9 feet @ 13.3 WNW
1400: 4.3 feet @ 12.5 WNW
1500: 4.3 feet @ 13.3 WNW
1600: 3.6 feet @ 14.3 W