Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Small But Improved in Dying Wind Swell

Surfed Eric's 6-6 again this morning, actually with Eric who was just getting ready to paddle out when I arrived at Platty's. Surf was a little better than a couple days ago, but no "real" sand bars to be found. With very little wind and sunny conditions it made for a fun morning with a lot of waist/chest high walls.

I checked the down coast beaches first (posted pics) but there was really only one peak working and bunch of guys already on it, so I decided to motor the short distance up coast to Platty's for the session. The waves were smaller there, as is usually the case.

Today's waves were the fading progeny of yesterday's wind swell, put up by blustery, Springtime north westerly winds. Water temps are down there due to the upwelling and the winds. Eric has a thermometer in his watch (what a lucky guy!) and it was registering 52 degrees. The nearshore buoy has it at 49.3F, but that's a little further from shore than in the beach break. Either way it was freakin' cold! My hands went pretty numb at about an hour, and I knew it was time to come in when I couldn't keep my fingers together when paddling.

Just another advantage of SUP surfing. You stay a lot drier and warmer on top of the water instead of in the water.

Apr 4, 2009 (Sa)
In: 1015
Out: 1130
AT= 49.5F to 50.2F
WT= 49.3F
Wx: Sunny and clear
Tide: 2' Falling to .5'
Wind: Calm to light from the southwest
Sea Surface: Calm to light wind ripples with light wind swell chop on top
6-6 Randy French Surftech TL2 Swallow Tail
Fin set-up: Standard Thruster with Future Vector II R2 435 sides and F4 437 center.
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
1000: 3.6 feet @ 11.1 WNW (2 - 4 ft. faces)
1030: 3.6 feet @ 14.3 W
1100: 3.9 feet @ 11.8 WNW (2 - 4 ft.)
1130: 3.9 feet @ 10.5 WNW

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