Oh yeah, now I remember. It's Fall. High tide in the morning, low tide at night. Not much goin' on for the dawn patrol...surfing until dark in the minus tides. Lots of Winter time, Winter swell reefs goin' off...haven't seen 'em in a year. Water gettin' cold, air temps warm up when it rains...more storms, more surf, blown out conditions. Head south. Stay home, get waves, SoCal shadowed all Winter long. Mind blowing sunsets at sea level.
Surfed the GB for almost two hours in, and around Sarges and Casa on a lowering to minus tide. There's enough west in the swell so that lots of winter reefs are working...not great, but surfable. The kelp is ubiquitous and looks real healthy. It should. Kelp loves cold water. Sometimes it slathers your board with itself on take-off. Press up, slip off 'cause kelp leaves are all over the push points.
Water temp was chilly, air temps not bad but cool. Light offshores. One young woman (hefty) out on a longboard in a bikini. I kid you not! She was out for an hour near dusk. She looked like she was having fun...yeah, if fun is freezing your okole off. (But she was pretty hefty...athletically speaking of course.)
On the way in Eric told me John gave a GhostBuster2 to Torey to try out. Eric said T got some killer rides using it as a kneeboard. Kneeboard, stand-up surf, bellyboard, or paipo...it's all good. One size (small) fits all. It ain't a shortboard, it's 60% of a longboard and built for fun.
November 18, 2009
In: 1535
Out: 1725
AT= 64-56F
WT= 54.9F
Wx: Sunny and clear
Tide: .75' Falling to -0.64'
Wind: Calm to light offshore
Sea Surface: Glassy
5-11 Freeline Ghost Buster 2 Mini-Simmons
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore #1-Nearshore-Farshore #2)
Time-NDBC Data-CDIP Data (Primary Swell Dir.)(Local Wave Ht. Avg.)
1500: 10.5 feet @ 12.9 NW - 6.9 feet @ 12.5 WNW (295) (2-4 ft. faces)
1600: 9.8 feet @ 13.8 NW - 6.2 feet @ 12.5 WNW (290) (2-4 ft. faces)
1700: 10.2 feet @ 13.8 WNW - 6.2 feet @ 13.3 WNW (290) (2-4 ft. faces)
1800: 10.5 feet @ 12.1 NW - 6.9 feet @ 13.3 WNW (295) (2-3 ft. faces)
1900: 9.8 feet @ 12.1 NW - 6.6 feet @ 14.3 W (295) (2-3 ft. faces)
I was at the shop talking with John the other day, and he showed me a bigger GB he had built for himself, something like 7'6"? Offered me a demo on it, might just take him up...if I can get any water time. Darkness kills the weekday session for me, which leaves the mess described in your post above, probably amplified because lots of others in the same situation as me are trying to get a week's worth in just 2 days. Managed to get some microwaves 3 till dark on Sunday, peaceful session but not much in the way of performance. Got the new sweep all sanded and polished, but burned through to the cloth in a few spots, so yet another gloss coat last night, then cure, sand, polish again.
ReplyDeleteNo rush on the paddle...keep the ottertail as long as you need it. Re the "giant" GB...imho it's not a mini-Sims if it's over about 6-4. John's got a 5-10 and a 6-2 for sale in the shop right now. I wish he would put one of those in service as a demo board. You kinda lose the whole idea of the "mini" when you start making them big. When I say they aren't shortboards, but 60% of a longboard I'm only half kidding. You get the paddle-ability, stability, trim and float of a longboard with the responsiveness of a much shorter board. It's kinda hard to believe until you surf one. EPS is essential for float and the lightness enhances maneuverability. You could easily ride mine so we'll have to get together for a session so you can try it out. If nothing else it would satisfy your curiosity. My little board generates a lot of interest when I take it out.
ReplyDeleteYeah, dark at 1730 puts the kibosh on surfing after work, and dawn patrol is pretty frickin' cold these last few mornings. But hey, that's early Summer weather where you used to live eh?
Take care and see you soon.
g
PS-We could do an early session at the beaches one of these weekends. (Not this one though...sketchy wx.)