Oh yeah, now I remember. It's Fall. High tide in the morning, low tide at night. Not much goin' on for the dawn patrol...surfing until dark in the minus tides. Lots of Winter time, Winter swell reefs goin' off...haven't seen 'em in a year. Water gettin' cold, air temps warm up when it rains...more storms, more surf, blown out conditions. Head south. Stay home, get waves, SoCal shadowed all Winter long. Mind blowing sunsets at sea level.
Surfed the GB for almost two hours in, and around Sarges and Casa on a lowering to minus tide. There's enough west in the swell so that lots of winter reefs are working...not great, but surfable. The kelp is ubiquitous and looks real healthy. It should. Kelp loves cold water. Sometimes it slathers your board with itself on take-off. Press up, slip off 'cause kelp leaves are all over the push points.
Water temp was chilly, air temps not bad but cool. Light offshores. One young woman (hefty) out on a longboard in a bikini. I kid you not! She was out for an hour near dusk. She looked like she was having fun...yeah, if fun is freezing your okole off. (But she was pretty hefty...athletically speaking of course.)
On the way in Eric told me John gave a GhostBuster2 to Torey to try out. Eric said T got some killer rides using it as a kneeboard. Kneeboard, stand-up surf, bellyboard, or paipo...it's all good. One size (small) fits all. It ain't a shortboard, it's 60% of a longboard and built for fun.
November 18, 2009
Wx: Sunny and clear
Tide: .75' Falling to -0.64'
Wind: Calm to light offshore
Sea Surface: Glassy
5-11 Freeline Ghost Buster 2 Mini-Simmons
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore #1-Nearshore-Farshore #2)
Time-NDBC Data-CDIP Data (Primary Swell Dir.)(Local Wave Ht. Avg.)
1500: 10.5 feet @ 12.9 NW - 6.9 feet @ 12.5 WNW (295) (2-4 ft. faces)
1600: 9.8 feet @ 13.8 NW - 6.2 feet @ 12.5 WNW (290) (2-4 ft. faces)
1700: 10.2 feet @ 13.8 WNW - 6.2 feet @ 13.3 WNW (290) (2-4 ft. faces)
1800: 10.5 feet @ 12.1 NW - 6.9 feet @ 13.3 WNW (295) (2-3 ft. faces)
1900: 9.8 feet @ 12.1 NW - 6.6 feet @ 14.3 W (295) (2-3 ft. faces)