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Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Thursday, November 19, 2009

SUP-O-Rama Today; Wind & Rain Tomorrow

What a contrast between yesterday and today. This afternoon I surfed Sarge's small peelers at low tide. I posted up wide of the main peak which had about seven surfers taking turns riding the fairly consistent waves. Size was a little smaller than yesterday. From my staircase take-off venue I was on the merry-go-round for the full session. Things slowed a bit before dark (I was the last one out) but the payoff was that my final wave was the best wave of the day. It was dark enough so that all contrast was gone from the wave face. The dimly lit ride was punctuated not by the visual perception of speed, but by the vibratory "sound" of my fin reaching "hum" velocity, and the increase in speed that was felt, not seen. The falling lip cascaded off my hips as the board rocketed forward with bursts of speed and trim derived from expert design combined with my knowledge and familiarity of the Angulo custom SUP.

Teak was out on his longboard, one of the better surfers to surf Sarges kelpy, fast walls. It's always a pleasure to watch his graceful style, and the command he wields over his wave craft as he trims, stalls and noserides with ease. The mark of a good rider, he makes it look easy.

But the most startling difference between today's and yesterday's surf was surfing on the water instead of in it. Yesterday I was in full Winter wetsuit regalia. Today I downgraded to my 4/3 and cloth hood. Still I had on my booties and short sleeve Mysterioso shirt. And I put the heated vest on just in case. But I never used it. I got wet briefly one time, but the inside of my suit, and all undergarments were dry as a bone when I left the water. Yesterday after two hours, my hands were almost numb. Today after a little over an hour, it was as if I never went surfing. The difference between SUP and laydown surfing re the cold factor.

November 19, 2009
In: 1605
Out: 1715
AT= 62F to 55F
WT= 54.7F
Wx: Clear with some scattered clouds
Tide: .96' Falling to -0.07'
Wind: Light offshore
Sea Surface: Calm to light wind ripples
10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and RFC Speedwings
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore #1-Nearshore-Farshore #2)
Time-NDBC Data-CDIP Data (Primary Swell Dir.)(Local Wave Ht. Avg.)
1500: 10.2 feet @ 13.8 NW - 6.2 feet @ 13.3 WNW (305) (2-3 ft. faces)
1600: 9.5 feet @ 13.8 NW - 5.9 feet @ 13.3 WNW (305) (2-3 ft. faces)
1700: 10.2 feet @ 13.8 NW - 5.2 feet @ 13.3 WNW (305) (2-3 ft. faces)
1800:9.8 feet @ 13.8 NW - 5.2 feet @ 14.3 WNW (300) (2-3 ft. faces)
1830: 10.2 feet @ 13.8 NW - 6.6 feet @ 13.3 WNW (no data) (no data)

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