Small Pounders At The Beach

Two small mixed WNW and W swells continued to ply the beaches. Surf was a bit smaller and of lesser quality than yesterday. Swell angle has changed somewhat, modified by the tide and decreased energy.

I got there early and was the first (and only) one out at the peak I chose to surf. From the view point, there was a nice right hander going off about every third or fourth set. It was real consistent with no channels or escape routes. Getting caught inside was more than likely. Oh well, that's the way it is.

A swift current was in effect and I spent a lot of time figuring out the line-up. I got a few good ones, and got pounded by a few too. Meanwhile upcoast, Ralph was getting some good rides at the spot we surfed yesterday. But, rogue sets were catching him and the others inside, and the waves were way less consistent and clean than yesterday. Overall, I chose to surf the empty, less quality (but not by much) peak, rather than the more consistent but crowded one upstream. A couple of the shortboarder wave hogs from yesterday's session returned about 9AM, but it was less crowded and the peak shifted around so much that everyone was having a little more trouble with the line-up. Therefore, no one was able to dominate the peak and pick off all the waves.

I had my fill after an hour plus with a few good rides under my belt and a fine cardio workout on the 6-10. I took pics after and it was definitely smaller and less consistent than yesterday. It's pretty hard not to have fun and be satisfied though...better to surf than not surf. The weather is good, with little wind from morning until dark. Most enjoyable, and a welcome change from the easterly to onshore wind by 9A or 10A every day Summer conditions. Got to dig it and get it while we can.

January 6, 2010

In: 0810
Out: 0925
AT= 45-48F
WT= 55F
Wx: Partly cloudy with high hazy cover.
Tide: 2.2' Rising to 3.0'
Wind: Calm to light easterly to calm.
Sea Surface: Light wind ripples

6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom
Fin set-up: Quad with Rainbow Speedwing sides and SB1 longboard rear fins.
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 2-3 ft.