Small Mixed Period Swells

The beaches regained some of their punch this morning as the swell increased a wee bit overnight. If only I had not lingered in the warmth of my cozy flannel covered down comforter, I would have scored a few more uncrowded peelers, but it was fun surfing in good waves none-the-less.

I rode the 6-10 since the surf wasn't so soft and was a little bigger. The volleyball pole peak was just going off when I arrived...only three guys on it so that was the call. A nice channel separated that desired peak from another down coast, so I was surprised when I got hammered by a big set blasting through it on my way out. No big...good exercise.

My first line-up was way too far upcoast and inside, so of course I got caught inside by an eight or so wave set that boomed in, as a result of the longer period WNW that was in the water. (Most of the ridable waves were due to the shorter period WNW which weren't closing out the channel.) The three guys out were good surfers, well versed in fast and furious beach break, and it didn't take long to attract the attention of others, who were looking for a spot to surf. It got crowded fairly quickly, as is the norm after 9 or 9:30AM. Soon there were nine rippers on the peak and barely enough waves to go around.

Fact is, a 62 year old guy on a (sorta) shortboard is not going to dominate in a crowd of young hotties. I got two really good waves in about 30 minutes, along with some short rides into close-outs, and I was happy with that. The vibe was hyper competitive among the younger surfers (mostly 20-somethings or early thirties) and probably fun to be around if you're 20-something. But at 60-something it's not as amusing. Let's just say that respecting the old guy, or even his turn when it came around, wasn't on their agenda.

But in the end they fed on each other. The sequence of the goofy footer getting snaked would be called "street justice" in law enforcement. The guy was a real Adam Henry, so what goes around, comes around.

Peace, out.

January 5, 2010

In: 0905
Out: 1015
AT= 46-52F
WT= 55F
Wx: Partly cloudy.
Tide: 2.2' Rising to 3.0'
Wind: Calm to light north/northeasterly.
Sea Surface: Light wind ripples

6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom
Fin set-up: Tri-fin with Rainbow Speedwing sides and Arakawa center.
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 2-4 ft.