I was on it again early this morning thinking I could score again. The swell had jumped up overnight, but not too big I thought. I arrived at the Cali Bar in the murky early light to find it way smaller than I expected, Shakes too. So I headed down to EoL's. I had such good surfing there yesterday, perhaps a redux?
Surprisingly again, it was much bigger than yesterday. At least a foot or two, and the sets were closing out. That's beach break for ya...good yesterday, less so today, or in an hour or, whatever. But there I was, all suited up and no place to go so WTF, let's go surfing. I paddled out right into what was yesterday's channel. Today, with more energy in the longer period swell, I couldn't punch through the inside sand bar. Unbeknown to me, the current that was running laterally yesterday in the trough just off the beach, was on meth today. Before I could get very far out, I was a hundred yards down the beach. Rather than wear myself out fighting a losing battle, I got out of the water and walked way past the channel to where I could at least avoid that current. It still took a little while getting out, but after a while I made it, only to find myself surrounded by large peaks closing out all the way to the beach, or not breaking until they were way inside...and then closing out.
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