Near Perfect (aka Fun) Sand Bar Longboarding

Perfection is in the eye of the beholder, as is the definition of "good" surf. For me, surfing a new sand bar right hander in pristine Winter conditions without another surfer in sight is not only good (and fun), but near perfection.

With the CDIP forecast spitting out decreasing swell data, and the COOAMPS wind forecast calling for light offshores, I knew the beaches could be a great place to get some waves this morning. I should have made an earlier start. I could have surfed the best conditions for another 45 minutes but alas, sloth and reluctance to face the cold weather (I am such an official wimp) held me back. As it was, I paddled out at 0745 and surfed a full two hours and fifteen before the higher tide tamped down the wave heights, and the southeast winds put a funky wind chop across the sea surface.

But for a solid hour and a half I surfed fun and almost glassy (think "chicken skin" sea surface) 2-3 ft. walls with a few four footers thrown in on sets...alone. (Well, there was one seal, one pelican and a boatload of seagulls eating bait fish. I was glad to see the seal. It's always better to have another member of the food chain out there with you.)

I switched out fins again, replacing the single DeTemple with a 2+1 set-up comprised of the larger FCS GX side fins and a Future 9" cutaway I bought a couple years ago, to use in my first 10-4 Angulo SUP. It made the SUP too stiff and hard to turn, but it worked very well this morning in the McTavish 9-3. The board was loose and maneuverable in the small waves, and held steady for the occasional foray to the nose. So far I think this is the set-up I like best for an all-around fin set-up. Next to try is the single fin Rainbow Pivot Fin, which worked really well in the 10-2 Angulo Custom SUP. It's a big fin though, and can't really be used in the kelp, so the kelpless beaches will be a good place to surf it.

Paul joined me late in the session and we surfed and chatted until I got out at around 10:15 or so. Another low pressure trough is coming/passing through this evening and into tomorrow. So conditions will probably be "craptacular" (as Adam Wright says) all day tomorrow. The swell is on the increase so we'll have to see just what tomorrow or the next day brings.

No pics today. I was too much in a hurry at 7:45 and the end of the session just wasn't what things were like during the sesh.

February 1, 2010

In: 0745
Out: 1000
AT= 43-50F
WT= 55.8F
Wx: Partly cloudy, beautiful!
Tide: 2.75' Rising to 5.06'
Wind: Light offshore to variable and light side/onshore
Sea Surface: Goosebumps to light wind chop

McTavish (PU) 9-3 Fireball
Fin set-up: 9" Future Cutaway with FCS GX sides
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell CDIP Archive
Wave Hts. (Faces): 2-3 ft. with an occasional 4 footer on the sets