With the swell dropping down in size the beaches and all the new bars that have formed would start to get very surfable in stead of closing out at all locations. I checked it before the lot opened up and the right hander was just starting to look good. In truth a better tide would have been more desirable, but that tide was timed to be later in the day, therefore the crowd would be on it. I'll take a little less quality but more uncrowded any day.
Eric paddled out with me and we were joined later by his co-worker and friend. Swell size was getting there, but it was just a little too big for the tide. The peaks were shifting all around and if you found the right spot to sit, you could be sure a rogue would come in and slap you. That was the price for getting a few good ones, and there were definitely a few of those. Steep and barreling sections moved into sloped off shoulders which would reform on the inside, giving up a ride all the way to the beach.
It was a bit of a workout though 'cause there were several opposing rips in place, and the inside current was swift. In one spot about 12 feet from shore I couldn't walk in a straight line in waist deep water. The current was so swift it just swept me away. No use wasting energy, just get in to the beach and walk back up to the sandy point.
Eric's been working at a house that is directly across from the break. He's got it wired and made. He'll work for a while, check the surf (and if it's going off) go surfing. Then back to work, keep an eye on it, go surfing, etc. etc. That's a job? Yeah, Dream Job.
Conditions couldn't be sweeter with the best Winter weather we've had so far this season. Near perfect board shorts and slaps weather. Gotta love it!
Note: The guy getting barreled in that left-hander sequence was out by himself, pulling down barrel after barrel. Then it just stopped. I don't think I've ever seen anything like it before at this strand of beach.