January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Late Season Gulf Swell in Offshore Conditions

A little diligence paid off this morning, even though I almost blew it last night. I initially set the alarm for 0415, then since it was late, I upped it to 5AM. So by the time I got to the beach it was way past light enough to surf. But even still, I was paddling out into cleanly peeling low tide zippers in a brisk offshore wind by 0615. Short story is I surfed for over two hours in completely crowdless conditions. Definitely a midweek score.

Riley gave me an early morning face licking, included gratis with his typically enthusiastic greeting before walking his human and letting her play throw the ball. I wish I had a tenth of his energy. If so I'd of had a four hour session which would have included a six mile round trip paddle to anywhere just for fun. But he was good and barked farewell as I threw the Angulo custom into the shallows for the paddle out through the kelp.

Real southies have been few and far between so far this season, although we have had a couple good ones...not great but good. The late season Gulf storm driven swells have filled in the gaps for what has been a good Spring. Although the weather has been spotty, with some late season rain which is highly unusual, generally the sun has been shining and the temps warm.

Surf today was very consistent, in the 2-4 ft. range for the duration of my surf. About half hour into the session Matthew paddled out on his longboard for a forty-five minute pre-work surf. What a great way to start the day. I surfed alone again for another half hour until The Don paddled out on his noserider extraordinaire, which he immediately put to work. As usual he pulled down numerous long noserides as the incoming tide began to take some of the punch out of the waves, especially down the line as the reef started to bloat with rising sea water.

I called it a day after a few more people paddled out, swelling the crowd to five. After all, I already surfed a couple dozen or so fun waves. No reason to be greedy...who knows, maybe there will be more tomorrow?

I love days like today. Jeff calls 'em "Tweeners". They can be fun waves "tween" ground swells, or good waves "tween" crowds. They're kinda rare and totally bitchen.

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