June 3-4-5 2010 (Thursday, Friday and Saturday)
Hadn't been out on my laydown paddlers in a while and with the small swell conditions thought I'd hit the beaches with the 7-0 Freeline Ghostbuster. I was on it at 0645, no one but me and the dolphins, seals,bait fish and numerous flying and floating creatures in the food chain. It was small but dazzlingly glassy on this mild, clear and flawlessly clean dawn patrol. A big net fishing boat outta MoCo was pulling in it's nets with a hundred thousand sea gulls and pelicans harassing the humans for their fair share. Surfed for an hour fifteen in beachie for sure, but with a few fast left hand peelers making it fun.
Friday morning I got on it late (0745) and there were already four in the line-up. That's what I get for being lazy. The surf was a bit bigger and yesterday's clear morning had turned to fog. It seemed like the shape wasn't as clean as yesterday too, but there were still fun waves to be had. A westerly swell generated from another late season north pacific storm was on the rise, putting up waves in the waist to chest high range. Another fun morning on the 7-0 Ghostbuster.
Saturday morning had it all, clear and bright early morning sunshine segueing into a skinny but thick sleeve of fog obscuring the land only 200 feet away, but then burning off to unwrap another jewel of a day. Since the swell had continued to come up I thought I'd surf the 5-11 Ghostbuster miniSim. I brought along the 7-0 just in case I wanted something a little bigger. Good thing too because after an hour and nearly a dozen waves, my back was telling me to switch out my board or I'd be paying the price. This I did and my wave count about doubled. It's amazing what an extra 12" of surfboard will do for your wave count. Even though the surf had gone from knee high to chest high, overall shape held up pretty well with the biggest sets closing out the usual take-off spot. I surfed for two hours with just a couple folks out, everyone getting lot's of waves. I was surprised at how long it took for the water to fill up with surfers, it being a Summer time school's out Saturday and all. But, my good fortune. Back in the lot I ran into Melissa and Mel, friends of Priscilla and Nancy. They were just heading into the water with their longboards and were stoked. How could they not be on a day like today?
I haven't surfed fun beachies in summer-like conditions for three days in a row in a couple years. The La Nina drought was such a drag. I'm so glad we were gifted with a moderate El Nino for the winter. It looks like we're back into a semi-La Nina pattern again, but the El Nino effects are still hanging on. Lot's of south swell coming up from the southern hemi, and the NPAC refuses to go flat out comatose, although that has to be coming soon. In the meantime the swells are supposed to drop off a little tomorrow and maybe pick up again on Monday, and the great weather is looking like it will hold all week. This is good news for surfers and beach rats alike.