Friday, August 22, 2008
2nd Day NW Swell A No Show
After a surprisingly good day of surf yesterday, the second (and forecast bigger) day of the NPAC ground swell turned out to be a dud. While it can't be said that there were no waves, compared to yesterday, surf was small and inconsistent. Consensus seems to be that a steeper swell angle on day two doomed the area to second class waves. This may be true, but the 0700 CDIP real time readings just aren't that far apart. Yesterday's CDIP at 0700: 5.9 feet at 11 seconds from 305 degrees and 1.7 feet at 17 seconds from 195 degrees. Today's CDIP at 0700: 7.7 feet at 11 seconds from 310 degrees and 1.0 feet at 14 seconds from 195 degrees. Perhaps five degrees makes the difference, or maybe it was the bigger south yesterday...no se, but food for thought.
Conditions matched the poor waves with a return to the previous gloomy August weather we've been experiencing. While yesterday it was 80F in C-town and absolutely drop dead gorgeous weather, today was high fog and overcast with light drizzle, in a word, horrid.
Ever the optimist I paddled out at 0600. I could barely see. One other longboarder beat me out and we traded turns and waves for about a half hour before we were joined by Michael, Priscilla, Patrick and John on his SUP. Priscilla was the first to suggest that the swell angle was too steep. Later Tim, longtime surfer and Eastsider, agreed with her diagnosis.
Being disappointed, I decided to go for a paddle up to the point and back, maybe bagging a few rides along the way. Everything was pretty crowded, and the surf wasn't really better any place else.
When I arrived back at where I started, Whitty was out. Brother Joe shot this pic of him on one of today's typical waves.
All in all, there were a few good sliders to ride, but I was hoping for so much better that I probably spoiled it for myself by expecting too much. Gerry Lopez is right. "Surf is where you find it."
All SUP photos by Brother Joe
Aug 22, 2008 (F)
AT= 53.8F to 57.5F
WT= 58.3F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Fog and overcast, light drizzle
Tide: 2.7 Falling to 2.1
Wind: Calm to moderate SE
Sea Surface: Light wind mottling with some periodic backwash from the cliffs
0300: 8.5 feet @ 13.8 WNW
0600: 8.9 feet @ 12.1 WNW
0900: 9.2 feet @ 10.8 WNW
1000: 8.5 feet @ 12.9 WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (0700 hours) 7.7 feet at 11 seconds from 310 degrees and 1.0 feet at 14 seconds from 195 degrees