Conditions this morning were pristine and gorgeous as the combo swell continued to deliver fun summer waves to all breaks. The west northwesterly swell was dropping in size, but the south's energy seemed to pick up a tick, as
verified by the consistently clean sets drilling into C-Town. The sequence is of a nose dweller
taking the inside line at the main peak. Generally, waves were smaller, but the south sets were strong.I got going a little late, not realizing that we'd have this sunny, no-fog sunrise that would move
up paddle out time by at least a half hour. I was also surprised to see sets coming in at Yellow House. When I saw that Greg and Jamie were already on it, I knew it was going to be good. Ironically, Yellow House did not break well yesterday, even though the waves were bigger. I'm thinking that today just delivered a cleaner south that refracted nicely into YH and C-Town.I ended up surfing with those guys all morning, snagging a lot of good waves from the house to Apt. House Point. I even got a couple triples and a quint, i.e. ride from A to B, kick out; ride from
B to C, kick out; ride from C to D, kick out; etc. etc. You can string those together for a 350 to 500 yard ride.Whitty and John S. surfed Sarges and I could see them getting lots of rides in the distance. When I got out, I paddled over to Sarges first to say hi to Sam who was out on yet another (but thicker) 9' SUP. He said John and Whit had moved over to GDubs. I could see them there, riding off the main peak and pulling into the end sections of the main peak waves that were too fast to make from the main peak. They bagged numerous
speedy and well lined up, but makeable waves, in the ten minutes or so that I watched them and surfed with Sam.
After three days of surfing (two solid swell days) and a twelve day layoff before that, I was pretty tired...and satisfied. This gift of waves will have to hold us as we head into August, notorious for flatness. Mexico anyone? I wish.
Aug 1, 2008 (F)
In: 0640
Out: 0910
AT= 50 - 61F
WT= 55F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Clear, bright and sunny
Tide: -0.8 Rising to 2.5
Wind: Calm to light southwest
Sea Surface: Glassy to Light wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
1000: 4.6 feet @ 9.1 NW
1100: 3.9 feet @ 14.8 S
1300: 4.3 feet @ 14.8 S
1400: 4.3 feet @ 14.8 S
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (0700 hours) 2.8 feet at 10 seconds from 320 degrees and 2.6 feet at 14 seconds from 170 degrees
I see a PSH board in that photo. Did you try it?
ReplyDeleteShort answer: no.
ReplyDeleteLong answer: Sam had two 9' PSH boards, one on Thursday and a different one on Friday. He had the faster and lighter one for Thursday's swell and I couldn't get him to give it up (too many good waves). On Friday he had his girlfriend's 9 footer which is a bit thicker. I'd already been out for a couple hours by the time I hooked up with him and I was too tired to give it a go. But I did reserve a tryout at some future date.
Sam's also got a 10' Bonga Perkins with the s-deck which I'm hoping he'll bring down as I'd like to try that one too.