August Winter

Paddled out this morning fully dressed for winter. 5/4 O'Neill Mutant, three mil booties and cloth hood. I started out nice and toasty warm, and I stayed that way. When this typical summer weather pattern invades, it can be worse than a cold winter day. Without solar gain, there is no warming. Combine 54F degree air temp with 55F water temp that stays that way for hours, and it's much colder than a sunny winter day with the same temps. The only thing worse about winter is those dawn patrol paddle outs when it's 36 degrees and the sun hasn't come up yet. Icy fingers going numb.

Eric and I hit the water at Sarge's at 0635 and paddled and surfed for three and a half hours. Surf was small, and relatively inconsistent. Whereas on Monday there was a fun peak at 2B's, the peak there today was pushing too far south, and most the waves just closed out over the reef. But there were a few fun ones.

We paddled up to the point after a while to see if there was anything going on, but it was too crowded for conditions and swell. All the waves were soft rollers, and the morning crew was on it. We headed back through Tres 8's (nothing happening there) and ended up surfing GDubs for another hour and a half with Andy and Jeff. With the higher tide, sets swinging wide produced some nice long, small rippers, with steep walls and fast sections. Andy continues to pursue nose riding excellence on his 10-8 Angulo Beachboy.

The NWS coastal marine data site was right on the money again this morning, calling the 6 to 8 foot NW swell at 9 seconds with dead on accuracy.

I switched back to my Infinity Ottertail paddle this morning, just to see if the high cadence, reduced resistance pull of the paddle would be a little easier on the back muscles. It was. So, for me, the Ottertail will be my paddle of choice. Maybe I'll sell the Kole and get another Ottertail in carbon fiber (love that stuff).
Aug 13, 2008 (W)
In: 0635
Out: 1005
AT= 54F
WT= 56F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Heavy fog with overcast
Tide: 1.5 Rising to 3.75
Wind: Consistently light southeast all morning
Sea Surface: Glassy to Light wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
0700: 8.2 feet @ 9.1 WNW
0800: 8.5 feet @ 9.1 WNW
0900: 8.9 feet @ 9.1 WNW
1000: 8.2 feet @ 9.1 WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: Data not available