Cold this morning. NWS is calling for lows in the 30's and some places dipping down into the 20's. Our valley is definitely capable entertaining freezing temps.
A little wind swell came up but not really big enough to shift back into town. Surfed the same beachie as day before yesterday, but a bit earlier to beat the onshores. Only today, the wind swell was hacked up a little by the remnants of yesterday's mild rain storm. And on top of that was an easterly wind that put it's own little mini wind swell on the nearshore wind swell. Still, there were a lot of waves with some occasional waits.
Paddled into the same sand bar, just north of the main lot. No one out for a while, then two shortboarders who didn't stay long. After a bit more than an hour a whole bunch of longboarders paddled out and sat too far inside. The channel wasn't as clearly defined today as the other day, and bigger sets were closing out through it, although there was a deep spot in between sand bars that provided some refuge.
For me, beach breaks, even when it's only 3 to 6 feet like today are just a plain workout. Which is good and bad. Good because it's a great workout and makes you earn your waves, and bad because I'm naturally lazy and really not in good beach break surfing shape. Surfing reefs with built in channels are too easy. I can paddle back out oh so leisurely. Get caught inside at the beachie and get ready to work. If I get too badly beat up, I just let myself get washed into the beach and try again during a lull. Lazy.
Met Tom and his son, nice guy who does stand up on a longboard! More power to him. Buzz was out once again, there isn't a SUP surfer around who surfs the beaches better than him. And Mash was there with his new Tim Stamps 9-2 high performance rocket SUP. Unfortunately Mashie arrived just a bit after I was getting out and I didn't get to try his new stick. But I've got a reservation for another day. I did see him surf a few and the board is lose and quick. At 9-2 it's short for a SUP, but it's 29" wide and 4-1/8" thick so there's enough foam so that standing in the flat water isn't a complete energy sapping chore. Tim shapes a really fine board and his rail line and rails are superb...just right. The bottom contour is really sweet with a slight roll in the tip, blending into a defined double concave all the way out the tail. The tail's got some vee in it too. I can hardly wait to give it a try.
Jan 3, 2009 (Sa)
Wx: High wispy clouds creating high mild overcast
Tide: 2.2' Rising
Wind: Variable E/ENE/NE/S/SE 1-6 mph
Sea Surface: Wind bump on top of wind swell
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0930: 3.9 feet @ 11.1 WNW
1000: 3.9 feet @ 10.5 WNW
1030: 3.0 feet @ 10.5 WNW
1100: 3.9 feet @ 10.5 WNW
1100: 3.9 feet @ 10.5 WNW