Under Performing, Over Hyped Swell #3

On a weekend that was supposed to produce the Mavericks contest, the Eddie at Waimea and some big wave fete at Peahi, the only thing we got (so far) was moderate ground swell that was, most of the time, on par with a good wind swell.

The long awaited and wave drought breaking Swell #3 peaked just before sunrise this morning, and proceeded to weaken from there. What a disappointment. To say that the crowd was on it is the understatement of the century. This swell got all the press a promoter could dream of. And the regular crew was on it too...surfed with Whitty, Joanna and Sean, Jamie, John, Andrew, Tim, Sam, Andy, other locals I can't remember right now, and a bunch of weekenders who I don't see very often because I don't often surf the weekends if I can get good waves during the week when it's less crowded.

Sets were populated with the most waves, and had the best wave size early on. I bagged a couple nice head high walls right off the bat. I surfed Sarges and paddled back and forth between there and Casa Roja for most of the session, although I did finish up in some small knee slappers down at Yellow House. (I love that place.) My best wave of the day came fairly early at Casa's with an overhead bomb that I found a fast line on, and just ripped my way through three very nice, fast sections. Since there was lot's of waiting around, the pack down at Sarge's all witnessed the wave and I got a round of "nice wave" from a couple of the regulars. Always nice to get a pat on the back, especially from da boyz.

All in all though, my complaints are small. And it was definitely good to be back on the dawn patrol, though it won't last long. I haven't surfed a sunrise in a while. It just don't get better than sunrise surfing into a clean and crisp morning full of fun waves.

Originally forecast to send us more waves into next week, I'm just hoping these swells can muster up the juice to actually provide some rideable town waves as advertised. But oh well, if not, back to the beaches.

Jan 17, 2009 (Sa)
In: 0706
Out: 1045
AT= 44 to 60F
WT= 52.7F
Wx: Sunny and clear
Tide: 2.5' Falling to 1.2, Rising to 1.5'
Wind: Calm to light offshores, then light east/southeasterlies
Sea Surface: Light backwash bump

10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Bathymetry: Reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0730: 5.9 feet @ 18.2 W
0800: 5.9 feet @ 18.2 W
0830: 5.9 feet @ 15.4 W
0900: 5.9 feet @ 16.7 WNW
0930: 5.9 feet @ 16.7 W
1000: 5.9 feet @ 16.7 W
1030: 5.6 feet @ 15.4 W
1100: 5.2 feet @ 15.4 W