Conditions Improve; Fun Beach Break

Temps were much warmer this morning as I packed up to check the beaches. 39 degrees instead of 29. Felt almost balmy outside. The sky was clear and it was warm in the sun. Wind calm to very light. CDIP was showing over four feet on the chart, which is getting up there but still a manageable size for me and the SUP. I gave the surf a quick check from the lot, it looked good, there was a workable peak and what looked like a channel, and suited up.

Once down on the sand I did my warm-up and watched...and watched...and watched. Sets were easily head high and closing out. Where did the channel go? Was I hallucinating up in the lot? Where did that rideable peak go? I almost bagged it and didn't go out, but beach breaks being beach breaks, the time warp phased out and reality was restored. Things settled down and the paddle out into the breakers was uneventful.

For most of the session it was 4 to 6 with makeable lines all the way into a channel that was the heart of bumpy and messy on the inside. The higher tide put a lot of backwash bump on the sea surface, but that dissipated during the lulls. The biggest sets offered the best take-offs and rides if they didn't close out. Smaller sets broke way inside. The peak I chose had no one on it for most of the hour and a half I rode it. A whole gaggle of sponsored shortboarders were on the (better) next peak down that was putting up some long, long lefts. The boyz were working that line pretty hard with lots of spray, 360's and aerials. I don't bother them, they don't bother me.

I received my new Infinity carbon fiber otter tail paddle day before yesterday and couldn't wait to try it out. It's much lighter than the fiberglass paddle I now have for a backup. I ordered the same length as the old paddle (82") and somehow that got miscommunicated into 84.75". Bummer I originally thought, but whatever, I've got to try it. I like it. I like it long, and I'm going to keep it that way for a while and see how it works out.

I contacted Steve about the goof and he was mega-bummed. I asked him to send me another paddle handle and instructions on how to cut it down and install the new handle. He sent me great stuff and the handle is on the way. So, I have the option of re-sizing the shaft if I want. Steve's shop is in Dana Point but he's the only game in town re the otter tail paddles which I'm absolutely sold on. It's not always easy doing business by email and phone, but Steve is always on it. He's a good man to deal with.
Jan 7, 2009 (W)
In: 0840
Out: 1000
AT= 46.4F to 50F
WT= 51.6F
Wx: Sunny
Tide: 4.1" Dropping to 2.4'
Wind: Calm to south/southwest at 1 to 2 mph
Sea Surface: Backwash bump and some wind ripples
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Bathymetry: Reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0830: 4.9 feet @ 11.8 WNW
0900: 5.2 feet @ 12.5 WNW
0930: 4.6 feet @ 14.3 WNW
1000: 5.2 feet @ 13.3 WNW
1030: 5.6 feet @ 12.5 WNW