More Fun Waves At The Beaches

This morning was almost what I would call the perfect Winter morning. It was cold to start, but warmed up fast. Not a cloud in the sky. The wind blew from every direction of the compass, starting out a brisk offshore, then turning onshore briefly, switching for a time to north (side shore) and then changing again, this time remaining consistent from the north east (side offshore) for the remainder of the two and a half hour session.

The moon is full, and so was the tide which is when I paddled out. The swell has lost a little energy from day before yesterday, but come up a bit from yesterday. I figured the waves would be a bit smaller, but breaking with nice shape over the same sand bars which are still in place...including that nice channel. I was right on all counts, and the waves were definitely four to six in the good sets.

Surfed the first hour by myself before Eric paddled out. He had his Arrow longboard this morning, replacing the quad from last session. He picked up some nice rides and fine looking drops before paddling in for work. Only three of us out from then until the two hour mark, before the place kind of got inundated. Went from three to nine peeps real fast.

Beach break is definitely interesting surf. Patience is a virtue. You gotta wait for the right wave to get the best rides. I completely mis-judged about three really good waves by either taking off too late and getting smashed, not riding hard enough on the inside rail and getting smashed, or letting a super nice wall go by and missing out complete. But still, tons of rides and a beautiful session.

Jan 9, 2009 (F)
In: 0820
Out: 1050
AT= 42F to 53F
WT= 51.8F
Wx: Sunny
Tide: 6.6' Dropping to 3.6'
Wind: Offshore to light onshore to easterly then north, finally north easterly.
Sea Surface: Backwash bump and some wind ripples
10-2 Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future FJC1
Bathymetry: Reefs
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0830: 4.6 feet @ 12.5 WNW
0900: 4.6 feet @ 11.8 WNW
0930: 4.3 feet @ 11.8 WNW
1000: 4.6 feet @ 11.1 WNW
1030: 4.3 feet @ 12.5 WNW
1100: 4.3 feet @ 11.8 WNW