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Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Happy Birthday Amor!

Our newborn baby grand daughter, Amor Dulce (Sweet Love), is one day old today! Mom and Dad are thrashed, having gone through a sleepless last 28 hours. Both are ecstatic but I'm sure mom is ready for a week of zzzzz's. It's been kind of a rough go for the last week. Daddy on the other hand, is a melted blob of blubbery love. Momma says she chose the name Amor because that's her grand mother's name, but I think she named the baby after my son, who is a very sweet, kind and loving man. Either way, or both ways...life is more than good! Thank you Lord for your many, many blessings. Amor Dulce indeed!

The baby was born at 8AM this morning as my wife and great grandma were heading to the hospital. I on the other did the selfless thing (again) and went surfing. Which in 20/20 hindsight was wise because no one got to handle the baby due to some very minor medical issues. My girls got home from the hospital just about as I was putting my custom Gu back up into the garage rafters.

Yesterday's swell has dropped off a lot, leaving small, wind swell at the beaches. The tide was ultra low this morning revealing the scallops and sand banks/bars that have been giving shape and form to the incoming waves. Two guys out on the better peak, surfing the long lefts and reforms that were pealing in. There was a marginal right slider next to a chopped up deep water hole with no one on it, so I surfed there for the first forty minutes by myself. Got some fun waves in bumpy conditions, even though the sea surface was glassy. Near shore wind swell conditions prevailed.

Herbie and his crew paddled out after I'd been out for a while and gang tackled the left. Why not, it was definitely the better wave. A giant rip tore through my take off zone on a diagonal march out to sea and pretty much ripped it to shreds and choppy pieces of mixed up wavelets. So I paddled up coast a bit but couldn't find anything I liked. Eventually the rip washed through and I headed back to my original right to finish off the morning.

Again the weather was gorgeous. A good day to surf, and an even better day to be born!

Mar 31, 2009 (Tu)
In: 0905
Out: 0920
AT= 53.7F to 53.2F
WT= 50.7F
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: -.7' Rising to .3'
Wind: Calm to light from the southwest
Sea Surface: Glassy with near shore wind swell bumps
10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin (fourth mark up from back) and Future Fiberglass YU (actual fin not shown)
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0900: 2.0 feet @ 10.5 WNW (2 - 3 ft. faces)
0930: 2.3 feet @ 10.5 WNW
1000: 2.0 feet @ 10.5 WNW (2 - 3 ft.)
1030: 2.0 feet @ 11.1 WNW

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