Spring Wx Preview and Wind Swell

The day didn't exactly start off great seeing as how I locked my keys in the car just as I finished suiting up. But on the bright side, I was ready to go surfing, I had everything I needed, and I hadn't been out for over a week. What the hey! I'll take care of the lock out after my session.

Surfed for an hour and half almost by myself. Surf was bigger than I expected, and a whole lot messier. Swell was predominantly a near shore wind swell blown up from a northerly wind blowing down the Oregon coast, and a five millibar pressure gradient from ACV to SFO. Sea surface was really bumpy with waves spaced very close together. It look a little like Victory At Sea without the music or the white caps. Surprisingly, I got a lot of waves and very few close outs, I tried to avoid most of those. Only a couple sets yielded nothing but close outs, and the incoming tide held up a lot of the walls. After a week out of the water I'll take it.

After the session I dropped my board and paddle at the car and trolled the parking lot for a cell phone to borrow. Fortunately I was in luck. Nat Young's mom was videoing Nat out surfing. She graciously loaned me her cell phone and my wife brought me another key in short order. Problem solved, thanks to a couple of good people.

Mar 9, 2009 (M)

In: 0825
Out: 1000
AT= 40F to 52F
WT= 54.1F
Wx: Mostly sunny with some scattered cumulus
Tide: 5.1' Rising to 5.4'
Wind: A mix of offshores from the east, and northeast then light onshores
Sea Surface: Bumpy, uneven sea surface
10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle

Fin set-up: RFC LB Pivot
Bathymetry: Sand
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0800: 2.6 feet @ 14.3 W (2 to 6 ft. faces)
0830: 3.0 feet @ 14.3 W
0900: 2.6 feet @ 14.3 WNW (2 to 4 ft. faces)
0930: 2.6 feet @ 14.3 WNW
1000: 2.6 feet @ 13.3 WNW (2 to 4 ft. faces)
1030: 2.6 feet @ 14.3 W