Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

More of The Same Only a Little Better

This morning was what I thought yesterday was going to be like. Waves were a little smaller and conditions were a whole lot better. 28 degrees in my car when I left my house. 33 degrees when I paddled out at 0800 in full rubber.

Seas were a lot less bumpy and the channel rip was no where to be seen. Basically it was just a lot smoother than yesterday morning. Offshores were blowing the tops off the waves at 1-3 mph. I surfed by myself for the first 45 minutes before anyone else joined me. Days like this morning are great here. Surf is way manageable and the place is more or less gentle and benign. No butt kicking today.

I've been running with the pivot fin all the way forward and today it slid out a couple times on hard bottom turns coming out of the pocket. I think I'll move it back a little although I'm liking the looseness of how it feels now, and I've been able to get up on the nose too. But tomorrow I think I'll change it out for the 2+1, 9.5" Futures cutaway and the regular longboard sides, just to see what happens.

While I was out the new dateline swell started to fill in. It ran 2.6-3 ft. at 20 secs. WNW for three data reports, but it didn't seem too different than the 2.6 at 13.3 readings to me. The only difference I could tell was that it dropped a little in size with the higher tide. This afternoon I stopped by the C-ville lookout and watched Dave C. and two other SUP guys at Sarge's picking off waves from the newly arrived west swell. Small and inconsistent, but a ton of waves when the sets came.

This morning's session stayed cold although there was some solar gain. Air temps never got above 46 degrees which really wasn't too bad. Sea temp is steady at 54 degrees. As it warmed the crowd picked up but it never got real crowded. Conditions stayed nice for a long time. The wind never went sideways and the onshores never really picked up while I was there. I left about 10:15 for brunch with Jay.

Got some pics of Herbie and Lee on their longboards, and Eric on his new 6'4" Pumpkin Seed. There were a couple young guys shredding at the peak right off the lot. A nice A-frame was putting up a ton of waves down the line towards the White House. If it doesn't get too big tomorrow could be really fun.

Mar 10, 2009 (Tu)
In: 0800
Out: 0930
AT= 33F to 49F
WT= 54F
Wx: Mostly sunny with some scattered cumulus
Tide: 3.7' Rising to 5'
Wind: Light offshores to calm
Sea Surface: Some light bump
10-0 Angulo EPS/Epoxy Custom SUP with Infinity Ottertail carbon fiber paddle
Fin set-up: RFC LB Pivot
Bathymetry: Sand
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0800: 2.6 feet @ 13.3 WNW (4 to 6 ft. faces)
0830: 2.6 feet @ 20 WNW
0900: 3.0 feet @ 20 WNW (4 to 6 ft. faces)
0930: 3.0 feet @ 20 WNW
1000: 2.6 feet @ 13.3 WNW (2 to 4 ft. faces)
1030: 3.3 feet @ 20 W

2 comments:

  1. Hey Gary,

    If you looked out at Sarge's(?)between 2:30 and 4:00, that was Dave and I out there. It was a lot of fun. Some sections but pretty consistent waist to chest and only two surfers at the peak (one SUP beginner on the shoulder).

    -Ron

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  2. Ron, I did see you guys. I was hanging out up on the cliff down by the pier eatin' a fro' yo' and watchin' the surfin' goin' on. Two guys and a lot of waves when the sets came. Nice score!

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